Nice work!
Nice work!
Thanks Pat.
Ditto "Great Work!"
Can't wait to see the test shavings....hoot!
Neat technique, Stewie.
I used my ECE plane yesterday flattening some apple wood:
Still waiting for the new double irons to arrive. I completed the rear bun and shaped the back end of the plane stock. I also added the front end bevels and the makers stamp. 1.5 tonnes of hydraulic pressure was needed to achieve a good imprint on Australian Jarrah end grain. I still need to remove the excess paint fill with a card scraper. I will do the wooden wedge and abutment block tomorrow. The sole length of this smoothing plane is 10 inches.
Completed the 1st stage of mortising out. (Outside the wedge abutment line and to a depth above the top line of the wear angle.) This cautious approach on initial depth reduces the likelihood of breaching the 2 targeted bevel angles. The pilot holes through the mouth were done on a pedestal drill with the tool rest locked in at a 95 degree angle. The double irons arrived in the post.
That plane is going to be beautiful...Awesome craftsmanship.
"The reward of a thing well done is having done it." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Truly awesome! I'm wishing for that level of skill and/or confidence...
Near completion. The side cheeks have been flared out and the eyes shaped in. All 4 sides of the plane stock flat sanded to 220 grit. The rear bun has been Hide Glued into position. The decision was made to make up a new front horn with some design changes. Those changes include a 180 degree dowel fit- stopped mortise and tenon joint on the heel. At this stage the new front horn has been roughly shaped ready for fine tuning work with finely stitched Logier Rasps. That will be completed tomorrow ready for gluing in. The 3rd photo shows my earlier attempt at shaping a German shaped front horn. (tote)
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 06-15-2017 at 3:53 AM.
Wow, that's coming along great Stewie. It will work great with a new double iron.
I missed this yesterday Stewie. Did you change from the dovetailed approach for the front tote? If so, I am not quite following what you described as a "a 180 degree dowel fit- stopped mortise and tenon joint on the heel". Would happen to be able to show a picture or two of what you came up with? Thanks
Pat; if you have a look at the previous photo's I carved a 1/4" deep -1/2 round (180*) tenon on the bottom surface of the front tote. A matching mortise was then cut to seat this tenon prior to glue up. A vertical face of long grain was also dovetailed into the vertical wall that the tote is seated against. By doing so, I was able to change the gluing surface from long grain to end grain to long grain to long grain. Ideal gluing surface. Combined, both actions taken should provide enough strength to accommodate the pressure placed upon the front tote during service. My apologies for not taking a photo of the tenon mortise prior to glue up. It would have made it easier for the reader to follow.
Stewie;