Recently there was a question about planing stops. My impression was the original poster does not have a tail vise, so this may not work for them. My purpose with this is to show how a piece can be held between dogs and planed without problems of looseness or bowing.
Planing Thin Stock.jpg
The stack in the vise opposite the workpiece not only keeps the vise from wracking it prevents applying enough pressure to the work to cause bowing.
In this case the workpiece is less than 1/4". My bad for forgetting to measure it. That can be done later if anyone cares.
It doesn't show in the picture because of the plane being over one end but this piece has reversing grain. The 'cathedrals' or spires point toward the center from each end. This kind of grain can cause a lot of problems with any but the lightest shavings.
Next up is using a Wards Master #45 (Stanley #45) to apply a pair of beads to a piece of scrap:
Piece of Scrap (Grain Swirl).jpg
Notice the waviness of the grain. This is not as bad as a reversing grain yet it can still cause problems.
The single 5/16" bead blade was touched up before starting the first bead:
Starting the Bead.jpg
It is not clearly noticeable in this picture but for a clean finish it is important to keep the fence against the work front to back through the full length of the planing stroke. Just as important is to keep the fence vertically against the work.
The Wards Master, of all my #45s, is the most finicky in its set up. It appears the moveable skate is a touch tweaked. If considerable care ins't taken to set the skates parallel they will start binding in the cut or cause the plane to drift. It is easy enough to have the cut drift with a perfect plane if one doesn't pay careful attention to the work at hand. One indication of this is having a problem with keeping the fence against the work after the cut has been started.
When starting the first bead the blade was set to take a healthy cut and the work was done for speed. That is when unwanted stuff happens:
Clogged.jpg
DOH! Thicker shavings clog quicker. Especially with bead cutters when the top of the bead and all around the side is being cut and is trying to get out.
The second cut was made with a much lighter cut and much more attention paid to the work at hand.
Tearout.jpg
There is still some tear out on the lower bead. It is nowhere near as bad as on the top bead. The edges along the quirk also came out smoother than those on the first bead.
Notice how the grain runs near the tear out. This is where the grain is doing a wave.
After a bit of using a combination plane, looking at wood has become different. There are moments when a piece presents itself as just right for an accent such as a bead or other shaped edge decoration.
jtk