New (to me) D8

[Kevin Smira]

Growing up, there were a few things I could count on. 1) playing catch with my dads autographed Mickey Mantle baseball 2) helping my granddaddy bale hay in the summer and 3) playing with my great grandfathers saw. At the time, I had no idea what it was, except that it was a saw and it belong to my fathers grandfather. Today, my dad brought to to me. I knew he was going to bring it when he came over for baseball today, but I had no idea what it was besides "a saw" and neither did my dad. He brought it over and after baseball, I did a little internet aleuthing. According to the interwebs and the medallion/number of screws, the saw dates from 1896-1917. It has a very good etch on it, and needs some cleaning and handle rehab, but it will definitely be a user for me and my kids. The only "odd" thing I see is that it has "11" stamped into the lower rear portion of the blade, so I'm not sure what that's about. I'll get it all cleaned up and post some pics. Then, I'll need to find a local sharpener to get useable.

[steven c newman]

The "11" means there are 11 points (teeth) per inch....That be a lot of teeth...

[Jim Koepke]

Then, I'll need to find a local sharpener to get useable.

My guess is you would likely do aa good a job as your local sharpener if there is one in your area.

If you are worried about trying it for the first time, find a junk saw and give it a try.

Looking forward to some pics.

jtk

[Kevin Smira]

@Jim...the problem I see is that it fees like some of the set is off...like I probably hammered the set flat when I was 8...

[Pat Barry]

My guess is you would likely do aa good a job as your local sharpener if there is one in your area.jtk

I know that you are trying to encourage, but this is simply an incorrect statement. For example, I know nothing about your own personal skill in saw sharpening, but I would bet $ that you do a better job than I. To suggest that a newbie can do as good a job as a professional, albeit with a little practice on a junk saw, is ludicrous and disparages professionals of all vocations.

[steven c newman]

11ppi teeth are a bit too small for my old eyes to see well enough to sharpen them. Not sure where you live, but around here ( west central Ohio) there are several that sharpen saws. The one I used charges $0.60 per inch, plus sales tax. D-8 and a square.JPG
My D-8 ( 1947 era) is an 8 ppi, cost me $16 to have it done.
DSCF0004.JPG
Just an old saw...

[lowell holmes]

A strong pair of drug store reading glasses will let you see the teeth. I know and so does George. IIRC, he's the one to suggest it.

[Jim Koepke]

To suggest that a newbie can do as good a job as a professional, albeit with a little practice on a junk saw, is ludicrous and disparages professionals of all vocations.

One definition of a professional is someone who does a task for payment. It doesn't say anything about being good at it. Finding a good saw sharpener might be difficult. Besides, so many others have given it a try and have found there is not great mystery to saw sharpening. It is only a matter of paying attention to what one is doing.

Some "professional" saw sharpeners do a great job. Most often folks here on SMC are not as lucky as Steven to have one in their area. The demand isn't high enough to keep them in business.

@Jim...the problem I see is that it fees like some of the set is off...like I probably hammered the set flat when I was 8...

The set problem can likely be corrected with a saw set. A saw set is not an expensive investment, especially if you plan to have more than one saw.

As Lowell says, if the eyes are in need get some reading glasses. I usually wear a pair over my regular bifocals to magnify saw teeth.

jtk

[Kevin Smira]

Here it is as it sits today. The plywood "carrier" as seen in the pic is as original to the saw as I've seen it in my 43 years. My dad said I could keep the saw if I made a new "carrier" for it. I will, but this will be a user for me, so I'll make something out of cherry (cause I have it on hand) to display when not in use. I know I didn't provide any good pics of the teeth, but anyone have a quick way for me to decide if it's rip or crosscut? I think rip and if not, I think I might get it filed for rip?

[steven c newman]

11 would be a crosscut saw. Looks like there is plenty of set.

Pre 1928. After 1928, Disston went from the 8 inside the D to a hypen style...D-8.

[Jim Koepke]

Kevin,

There is a lot of good information on this site:

http://www.vintagesaws.com/

Especially in the library. You might want to start with:

http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/f...y/library.html

Even if you do not feel like sharpening your own saw this will show how to determine a rip from a crosscut saw.

jtk

[Patrick Chase]

(Pokes nose into SMC in a work-free moment, sees that both the cast of characters and general discussion topics are reassuringly familiar :-)

I know that you are trying to encourage, but this is simply an incorrect statement. For example, I know nothing about your own personal skill in saw sharpening, but I would bet $ that you do a better job than I. To suggest that a newbie can do as good a job as a professional, albeit with a little practice on a junk saw, is ludicrous and disparages professionals of all vocations.

Indeed. I've done probably ~40 saws total, and my results aren't in the same league as people who've done it day in and day out for a lifetime.

One definition of a professional is someone who does a task for payment. It doesn't say anything about being good at it.

As a rule hacks don't stay "professional" by that definition for long.

Finding a good saw sharpener might be difficult. Besides, so many others have given it a try and have found there is not great mystery to saw sharpening. It is only a matter of paying attention to what one is doing.

I think this depends to a certain degree on one's definition of "good". By paying attention to that stuff I can create uniform angles and point spacing/height, but I would describe that as merely "adequate".

Some "professional" saw sharpeners do a great job. Most often folks here on SMC are not as lucky as Steven to have one in their area. The demand isn't high enough to keep them in business.

That's why people like Pete Taran offer sharpening services by mail...

[Patrick Chase]

Here it is as it sits today. The plywood "carrier" as seen in the pic is as original to the saw as I've seen it in my 43 years. My dad said I could keep the saw if I made a new "carrier" for it. I will, but this will be a user for me, so I'll make something out of cherry (cause I have it on hand) to display when not in use. I know I didn't provide any good pics of the teeth, but anyone have a quick way for me to decide if it's rip or crosscut? I think rip and if not, I think I might get it filed for rip?

Most people would consider 11 tpi on a saw as large as a D8 to be most useful for cross-cutting. Note however that there are a fair number of people who file their crosscut saws with rip profiles, so the application doesn't rigidly determine the tooth profile.

The rake angle on those teeth looks to be ~20 deg, which is most commonly used with some fleam, i.e. in a crosscut tooth profile. Again there are people out there who use similarly relaxed rake with rip profiles, so it's not a hard and fast thing.

[Jim Koepke]

Most people would consider 11 tpi on a saw as large as a D8 to be most useful for cross-cutting.

Also one should be aware the teeth have to be counted against a ruler. Many saws are marked with a number that has no meaning due to someone changing the saw over time.

One of my rip saws came from the factory with a 10 ppi toothing. It isn't a Disston, but it does leave a smooth cut.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Some people file all of their saws rip cut, especially the fine tooth ones. I prefer to have my joinery saws files cross cut and rip cut.

I took some Paul Sellers classes and they only had rip cut saws. My hand saws (carpentry saws) are cross cut for cross grain cuts and rip cut for ripping cuts.
After all, we must have one of each!

My carcass saws are are rip cut.