Knob and tote finish

[Patrick Chase]

I have several Stanley planes in various states of rehabilitation, but I'm a bit frustrated with getting the finish right on the knobs and totes. I find now that I prefer the lower gloss, less artificial feel of something like an oil finish, however I don't like how my Danish oil darkened the rosewood and seemed to hide the grain. I've also tried spray shellac (rattle can) and well, fool me once....

Is there an oil finish available that's almost completely clear so as to preserve the color and grain in the wood? BLO seems to have an orange-y tint to it, but maybe that's my best bet?

I'm surprised that nobody else has suggested pure Tung oil (the real deal, not the multitude of "Tung Oil" and "Danish Oil" finishes on the market that contain nothing of the sort). It ticks off all of your boxes: It's a polymerizing oil like BLO, but darkens and colors significantly less. The only catch is that it takes ~weeks to cure.

[Nathan Johnson]

Thanks, Patrick. I'll have to look into that also. The curing time isn't much of an issue given my lack of shop time these days.

[Derek Cohen]

Since no one has commented, and because the results are so superior, I am going to repeat my recommendation for Ubeaut Shellawax. Get it from Lee Valley. It will not darken the wood, add clarity like shellac always does, and has all the durability you would wish. Chris Vesper uses it as well.

Here is a Stanley #3 that I renovated several years ago. The wood was dark to start, but you can still see the grain and fine colour variations through it ..



Amd the same plane photographed a few weeks ago, having been used regularly in the years between ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stew Denton]

Derek,

I have to say, that stuff looks like it has stood up extremely well. It looks good too.

Stew

[Nathan Johnson]

Derek, I do appreciate the suggestion and didn't mean to appear to ignore it. I don't currently own a suitable tool to turn a buffing wheel, but I agree that I like the appearance of that finish.

[Patrick Chase]

Since no one has commented, and because the results are so superior, I am going to repeat my recommendation for Ubeaut Shellawax. Get it from Lee Valley. It will not darken the wood, add clarity like shellac always does, and has all the durability you would wish. Chris Vesper uses it as well.

I've experimented with it and it's a beautiful finish as you say. I haven't used it long enough to get a sense of durability, but I imagine it will do at least as well as any other "no-/low-build" finish. As a shellac/wax blend it obviously can't compete with high-build varnishes for durability, but that's not what the OP wants anyway so it's a nonissue. One obvious concern would be heat tolerance btw.

In any case, the reason I didn't second your recommendation here is because the OP specifically said that he liked the look of an oil finish, but wanted something that discolored less. Shellawax doesn't really seem to fit that bill, as it modifies the surface sheen significantly more than oil.

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick, you can remove the sheen with a rub of 0000 steel wool.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Brady]

I have used Shellawax on pens and found that it wore off rather quickly. That might not be a bad thing on restored plane handles since it provides another sort of patina to go along with that of the metal parts of the plane. There is a sort of continuum of of preferences for how a "restored" plane should look; ranging from "don't disturb the DNA left behind by the original owner", to "let's put lipstick on this pig and call it beautiful". My preference is to achieve no better than new condition on any tool, but I strive on older tools (prewar) to have them look just well cared-for. Shellawax fits well into the latter group.

[Nathan Johnson]

Figured I would post an update.

I appreciate all the suggestions, but I decided to try Jim's suggestion of Feed n Wax first since it was the cheapest/easiest to start with. Sanded to 220, then liberally applied multiple "coats" until it wouldn't dry any longer and some residual wetness remained. (Typically 3 to 5 applications.) Wiped it with a cotton t-shirt.

There's no real shine to it. It's a very matte finish, but I'll be darned if they're not the softest, most comfortable feeling handles I've got on anything. I fall in love with how they feel every time I pick one up, and sometimes I just touch them because I like it. I'll just keep a rag around to freshen them up as needed. Thanks, Jim.

[Matthew Hutchinson477]

I've used both tung oil and Waterlox Original on a number of handles/totes/knobs. They do darken the wood a little bit but not nearly as much as linseed oil. The waterlox is definitely more durable, and in light coats doesn't feel plastic-y or anything. I lean more towards tung oil most of the time now, though--it's easier to apply and the extra durability of Waterlox isn't necessary on most of my tool handles. I also have a tote and knob that I sanded to 600 grit and just waxed. In my opinion it feels and looks the best. Nothing seems to make grain pop like shellac though, if that's what you want.

[Mark Gibney]

Some good suggestions on this thread that I want to try out myself.

I tried to refinish the totes on several planes with the poly / BLO mix I use on furniture, and it just wouldn't take - I guess due to rosewood being oily, as a poster above pointed out.

[Rob Moore]

Rosewood that was used in Stanley plane handles does not need additional oil added as a finish. It only darkens the wood and may not adhere well. The original finish is a form of shellac that adds luster without darkening the rosewood. When I finish rosewood handles I use BullsEye spray shellac as a base coat, and about 15 minutes later spray Watco satin luster lacquer from a spray can; 2-3 light coats. These finishes will be dry to the touch in less than an hour, for both; and are completely compatible.

Resurrecting an old thread here. I have a few older Stanley planes I'm refurbishing (and one Sargent) and based on my reading here and elsewhere I'm pretty sure the knobs and totes are rosewood. After scraping and sanding one of the knobs I sprayed a few coats of BullsEye shellac and it looks quite nice. I was wondering how much shellac you put on and whether you did anything to the knob before spraying the Watco (e.g. do you buff at all with 0000 steel wool or other?). Also, I have both satin and semi gloss Watco spray lacquer and was wondering if the original finishes were more shiny than what one would get with satin. If I sprayed semi-gloss first and then wanted it flatter, would spraying a few coats of satin do that? Thanks.

[Rob Luter]

When I was refurbing old Stanleys I’d sand the knob and tote to remove the original finish. The next step was soaking in Watco Danish oil. After a three day cure I’d scuff with a Scotchbrite pad and spray with gloss lacquer. No complaints.

[Rob Moore]

When I was refurbing old Stanleys I’d sand the knob and tote to remove the original finish. The next step was soaking in Watco Danish oil. After a three day cure I’d scuff with a Scotchbrite pad and spray with gloss lacquer. No complaints.

Thanks but I’m following Mike Brady’s approach of shellac then lacquer based on posts here as well as several others. Oil based finishes tend to be too dark for rosewood based on much feedback.

[Cameron Wood]

I use Tung oil on all tool handles- it's already there on a rag after putting finish on a project and relatively low toxicity.