Knob and tote finish

[Doug Trembath]

As a turner, I can verify Derek's suggestion of the Shellawax... I use it on every plane in my collection. I happen to have an additional benefit, however, in that I have an advanced buffing system that runs on my lathe, and makes the Shellawax look simply marvelous as well as adding a slick but not slippery surface so your feel of the wood on your plane is like no other. Everyone I know that uses it raves,,,

[Jim Koepke]

As a turner, I can verify Derek's suggestion of the Shellawax...
Everyone I know that uses it raves,,,

These endorsements led me to look up Shellawax. All was good until at the bottom of the Lee Valley page for the product was this:

Not available for shipment to California, Colorado, Connecticut, District of Columbia, Maine, Minnesota, Oregon, Rhode Island, Vermont or Washington.

Anyone have any ideas on why that may be?

jtk

[Jimmy Harris]

These endorsements led me to look up Shellawax. All was good until at the bottom of the Lee Valley page for the product was this:



Anyone have any ideas on why that may be?

jtk

I can't say for sure. But a quick glance at the MSDS doesn't show anything suspicious, other than extreme flammability (class 3). So there might be special regulations in those states with transporting materials like that that would significantly increase the cost or complexity to comply with. So rather than go through that hassle, they just avoid it all together.

For example, it has a flash point of 23° C. That's really, really low.

But that's just my theory. You could call them to find out.

[mike stenson]

23ºc, that's totally in my comfort zone.

My shop is hotter, for about 9 months of the year.

[Jimmy Harris]

Some good suggestions on this thread that I want to try out myself.

I tried to refinish the totes on several planes with the poly / BLO mix I use on furniture, and it just wouldn't take - I guess due to rosewood being oily, as a poster above pointed out.

You could try Watco's Teak Oil. It works pretty well on oily or dense woods. Or add a bunch of solvent (like around 1/3rd to 1/2) to your poly/BLO mixture, to thin it out so it can absorb easier. And really clean the wood with some naphtha or mineral spirits right before applying, so help remove some of that natural oil from the surface.

The Howard's Feed N Wax is a good product. But it's not very protective. It's mostly just a solvent and wax, with mostly paraffin, and a little bees, and carnauba. There's some orange oil in there too. The solvent thins the wax out to make it absorb deeper into the wood, so it's a little different from regular wax. But it doesn't provide much protection other than a little moisture resistance. But if that's what you're looking for, then it is great for that.

[Rafael Herrera]

Rosewood can be burnished with a buffer wheel and polishing compound. A varnish is not necessary if one goes that route.

[Charles Edward]

Strip them then wax only. Whatever you use on the furniture you make is fine. Don't overthink it.

[steven c newman]

Whatever you do use..remember this...those handles will see a lot of use...from Sweaty, SALTY hands....so the finish you use will have to stand up to that.