modifying dust ports - gorilla coming

[Gary Kittleson]

Ok, so this is a gloat....as well as an inquiry. I took the plunge and purchased the 2hp dust gorilla. I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to it. After taking a few months off this summer, I have spent the last two months blowing my nose non-stop. (so that is why I've been stuffed up....wood dust, duh!)

Anyway, before I gloat too much, I could use a little help from those of you who have modified their machines. I have a Delta Unisaw, and a General 6" planer. Both of these machines have 4" dust collection ports. I want to take 6" pipe to them, so I need to change the connections. The General seems as though it will be easier than the Delta.

If you have a unisaw which has been modified, I'd love to hear from you. If you are familiar with the unisaw, and have an idea, please share!

Thanks,

GAry

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I haven't modified to a 6 inch, but I have to a 4 inch. Most any machine can have a dust hood built out of plywood, just caulk the seams and try to make it as air tight as possible.

For connections I have used a peice of pipe glued into a hole most of the time.

Congrats on the Gorilla and Good luck!

[Roy Wall]

Gary,

Welcome to SMC!

I've got that 2hp gorilla and am very pleased. Running a 6" line right to the machine is a great idea. Even 5" give excellent results.

I had a local sheet metal shop make some 5" dia. "collars"...on which to start my flex hose.

On the unisaw, if you could construct some sort of "dust shroud" around the blade/trunion area, this would certainly help too.

You'll get some great ideas from the folks here at SMC!

[Michael Gabbay]

Gary - Check with Oneida. I think they have some generic collars with a flange that you could bolt on and then caulk.

Congrats on the Dust Gorilla!

Mike

[Mike Weaver]

... Most any machine can have a dust hood built out of plywood, just caulk the seams and try to make it as air tight as possible....

Just remember that with any hood for any tool - enough air must be drawn to the DC hose, or it won't be effective.

The area of the 6" pipe should equal the total area of all paths the dust passes through to get to the pipe.

Cheers,
-Mike, who wishes he had a unisaw.

[Jamie Buxton]

To increase the size of the port, you probably need to increase the size of the hole through the machine's sheet metal. Use a saber saw with a metal-cutting blade. For the starter collar, buy one at your local Home Depot and the like. An HVAC guy uses them to start a branch off a duct. Depending on its design, you may be able to mount the collar directly to the machine's sheet metal, or you may want to mount it to a sheet of plywood which you then screw on to the machine's sheet metal.

[Andy Hoyt]

Gary - Oneida stocks tons of reducers and I know they have a standard 6" to 4" in the product line - I've got some.

In general, they say to always run the duct in as large a diameter as possible to as close to the machine as possible. So making a 6 to 4 reduction right at the machine is optimal.

Seems that this would be the less expensive, less painful, and less time consuming than most other options.