In my shop, the router takes that task as I don't run a dado blade on my slider. I "can" do that, at least for narrower grooves, but have chosen to not do that.
In my shop, the router takes that task as I don't run a dado blade on my slider. I "can" do that, at least for narrower grooves, but have chosen to not do that.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Both have their place. With a nice heavy saw like yours, I prefer the mass and power of the TS most of the time.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
I have recently had to put a 1/4" dado down the 84" long sides of four pieces of 1/2" plywood (baltic birch, actually 12mm). Even if I had a dado blade the table saw would not have been feasible because I can't control the sheet well enough - and using a router would have required even more work than making something to hold the sheet on a table saw. However.. it turns out to be easy to do with a shaper and power feeder. Set-up took a long time, but all of eight turned out about right on the first and only pass.
I use dado stacks on the RAS the TS and the spindle moulder . some are HSS but i do have TC too in 16" ,12", 10" and 9" some are split grovers from the 50s and cut so clean that there is no need for hand tools .
jack
English machines
Table saw - router - track saw - - - I've used (& will probably use again) all three.
It all boils down to what's the easiest one to use for the job at hand.
Been there/done that - piece of cake w/the track saw. Nothing to it & the fit is so perfect I'm tempted to do it that way all the time........but.....I'm usually too lazy & just use the table saw & dado blade.I have recently had to put a 1/4" dado down the 84" long sides of four pieces of 1/2" plywood (baltic birch, actually 12mm)
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon