To Flock or Not?

[Al Launier]

I'm currently building an elongated 8-sided jewelry box for both my wife & daughter. In the past I've used velvet to line the boxes, but this time around I'm concerned about all the seams/joints required with these octagon boxes if I were to use adhesive-backed velvet. So, I'm thinking of flocking them instead.

I plan on thoroughly masking off those areas not to be flocked to keep the flocking as neat as possible. However, I've never flocked before & wonder just how well it simulates/duplicate velvet, whether it tends to bunch up in corners, and if it tends to come off or wear off with time. After watching a couple how-to videos it seems to be a simple procedure, but I still have these questions. On the surface (no pun intended) it seems like an easy way to line the more complicated geometries.

Also, are some brands of flocking better than others? If so, what are the top brands?

I'd appreciate comments/recommendations/tips from any who have used flocking to line their products. Thanks, looking forward to your help

[Frederick Skelly]

Al, in my experience the DonJer brand of spray on flocking works well. You have to mask well, then spread the glue. If the glue isnt bunched up in the corners, the flocking wont be.

I like the flocking myself, but it is not deep and lush like velvet.

Fred

[Ted Phillips]

I'd echo Fred's comments - The DonJer brand is solid. Make sure to get a glue color that matches the flocking you are going to use. There are several different types of flocking material including rayon and nylon (among others). Rayon is usually the material I use - but it isn't as colorfast or weather resistant as nylon (the insides of jewelry boxes don't usually need to be! ). Flocking is pretty durable on something like a jewelry box - but it isn't the same feel as velvet. Personally, I like how it covers up minor imperfections on the inside of the piece!

I always use a wash coat of shellac on the surface of the wood before applying the adhesive - this keeps the adhesive from soaking into the wood. Mask off then apply the adhesive. I always use the applicator tube to spread the flocking - and make sure to use more than you think you need. Better to lay it on thick and reclaim the excess fiber than have "bald" spots in the box. Then comes the tough part. Set the box down and walk away. No fiddling. No shaking. No touching. Leave the excess fibers in the box for now - Respect the manufacturer's drying/curing times.

Your wife and daughter will love their presents!

[Al Launier]

Great feedback! Is the oil-based better than the water-based flocking? Can a spray type of adhesive be used equally well like the 3M spray adhesive? Have you tried the air-assisted spray can(10-15 psi) method?

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

Al,

Talk about good timing. I just did my first two flockings last night. I have two unusual shaped boxes. I tried cutting felt and it just was not working out.

I have to say I was impressed with the flocking (I used the DonJer) brand. An even coating of glue is important (I had some globs in the corners that showed up) and I do recommend masking off--I have red mold on the side where I missed the glue on one of the sides.

[John Sincerbeaux]

NOT!
flocking the inside of a box would not be a choice for me.
My first choice would be suede leather, which is actually synthetic suede. Most fabric stores sell this in many colors. The synthetic suede looks and feels like real suede but will not harm jewelry.
It sounds like your install technique may need a tip?
When I use suede or velvet, I mount the fabric on a false bottom using mat board. On a shaped box like yours the trick is to scribe the inside of your box before assembly on the mat board. Then cut the matboard apx 1/16" under sized, this allows for the fabric thickness. I use spray adhesive to apply the fabric to the mat board. Trim the fabric about an inch larger on all the sides, trim, fold over, then spray adhesive again to the back side. You now have a covered false floor that you simply glue down to the bottom of your box after finishing.
I think the suede gives the most professional results no is probably the easiest. IMG_2329.jpgIMG_2334.jpg

[Daniel Smith]

I'll second John's suggestion. I've used that method with a couple different types of cloth with excellent results. You can do the sides that way as well.

[Frederick Skelly]

IMG_2329.jpgIMG_2334.jpg

John, your work is just beautiful. That's a box anyone (male or female) would be pleased to receive as a gift.
Fred

[Al Launier]

NOT!
flocking the inside of a box would not be a choice for me.
My first choice would be suede leather, which is actually synthetic suede. Most fabric stores sell this in many colors. The synthetic suede looks and feels like real suede but will not harm jewelry.
It sounds like your install technique may need a tip?
When I use suede or velvet, I mount the fabric on a false bottom using mat board. On a shaped box like yours the trick is to scribe the inside of your box before assembly on the mat board. Then cut the matboard apx 1/16" under sized, this allows for the fabric thickness. I use spray adhesive to apply the fabric to the mat board. Trim the fabric about an inch larger on all the sides, trim, fold over, then spray adhesive again to the back side. You now have a covered false floor that you simply glue down to the bottom of your box after finishing.
I think the suede gives the most professional results no is probably the easiest. IMG_2329.jpgIMG_2334.jpg

Beautiful box John, beautiful indeed!

I just returned from Rockler's & checked out the Flocking demo sample & decided to go with the self-adhesive velvet. Of course having my wife there to compare the two was an influencing factor. I'm comfortable with her choice & I'll also use the velvet for my daughter's box as well. I've traced & cut the 8-sided profile onto medium thickness poster board for the boxes & will apply the velvet sheeting to them just as you described & will wrap the sides as well to hide the glue squeeze-out. Although the flocking does provide some advantages, especially for complex shapes, I have to admit that I also liked the feel & appearance of the velvet better, although it is expensive.

I'll have to check out the suede leather next chance I get.

Thanks to all for your comments & suggestions.

[roger wiegand]

On a box that nice I'd use real leather. Not a place for either plastic or spray on fuzz. Beautiful work.

[johnny means]

Plus one on genuine materials.

[Ted Phillips]

I also use a lot of glove leather to line the bottoms of my boxes. You can find some really good 12"x12", 18"x18", 20"x20" and similar sized pieces on ebay in a range of colors and textures. Personally, I use the full-grain King glove leather from PeggySueAlsoLeather. It is about 3 ounce weight and maybe 2mm thick. I cut it to size, test fit and trim, and then glue it inside the box using regular wood glue. Don't use so much that it oozes out. Then I use a block of wood to press the leather down and adhere it to the bottom nice and tight.