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Thread: Buying a used DJ-20

  1. #1

    Buying a used DJ-20

    Im Buying a used Delta DJ-20. The guy is asking 825 for it. He said he was firm on the price and that the machine is in great shape and makes good edges but he did say the infeed table has a slight cup to it along the length of the table with high points about 3 inches in front of the cutter head and 4 or 5 inches from the edge of the table. He initially did not tell me these things so I had assumed everything was good and agreed to buy it before I knew about it. I assumed everything was good to go and then he mentioned these things to me. He has been forthcoming since and has sent multiple pictures as hes 100 miles away. He said the cup is about the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. It was originally a 3 phase unit and that his father had installed a new delta motor and switches. There appears to be an electrical box on the right side of the stand with what I am assuming is a vfd or something else to get it to run on 240v which would mean that it is not a new motor etc. My question is should I pass on this jointer? He said it includes a brand new set of blades and the surfaces are clean ie no rust or anything. My concern is that maybe it was lapped by someone at some point because of rust or something and that has caused the cupping. is this something that I should pass up on?

    Thanks,
    Thomas

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
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    5,666
    Hard to say without putting a straight edge on it but lots of jointers have tables with a high end or on both ends. .004 is no worry, .008 gets high. The hollow along the length on the infeed end is not so bad if the table is flat across the width , particularly in front of the head. Outfeed is more critical. The area where the insert meets the cast iron tends to be a problem area but again, moreso on the outfeed. If the fence doesn't have twist, I'd run a board and see if I could live with it. I'm guessing the flaw isn't fatal. Dave

  4. #4
    another question i had was im going to have to drive 120 miles and rent a trailer to pick this up. at that point should i just look into a new grizzly? 0490?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    So Cal
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    Since he's not using a precision straight edge the photo says nothing.
    Aj

  6. #6
    Where would you get a precision straight edge from? and say the infeed isnt as flat as he says what could one do to flatten it if say he gave me alot cheaper price on it?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Lee valley sells them and they are good.The one I bought from suburban tools is better.
    If your set on buying a jointer with tables that can be adjusted like the DJ might as well get a precision straight edge.
    Its in your advantage to buy a jointer that you can check with a straight edge before buying.
    A precision straight edge need to be handled and cared for properly to stay straight and be useful.
    Aj

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    If you can borrow a good straight edge, take it to Lowes or HD and check their extruded levels. I have a Penske 8' straightedge and found my 8' level was good enough to use on my jointers. They will tell you enough if as long as both tables to make a decision. I would not bet that a new machine would be better unless you get lucky. The tolerance specs are often pretty loose. Humps are far worse than hollows on the infeed side. Flat on the outfeed and co planar tables are most important. Dave

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
    431
    I'm off to purchase a used DJ-20 tomorrow myself. How big a deal is it to find the knife setting jig?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Central WI
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    You generally don't want a jig to set a jointer. One of two dial indicators set on the outfeed is way better. If you don't like that, buy ESTA holders and knives and set them once. Dave

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
    431
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    You generally don't want a jig to set a jointer. One of two dial indicators set on the outfeed is way better. If you don't like that, buy ESTA holders and knives and set them once. Dave
    Well, its home. I got the tables all cleaned up, and they're bang-on flat. The fence squared up nicely. The knives are serviceable if I avoid the inch closest to the fence, but they'll get swapped in the future. Just gotta get everything dialed in now. Thanks for the knife setting advice. I also managed to come home with a little partner for the DJ-20 in the same deal. That one needs a bit more cleaning, but its in great shape....

    I also came home with a bonus item, a feeder. But I'm not sure how to attach this guy.

    (and I'm aware that the images are fubar)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Brian Lamb makes an indicator that i prefer over the Oneway to set knives. check his site. Dave

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Landenberg, Pa
    Posts
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    Will do sir, thank you!

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Nice score William.
    Aj

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by William Chain View Post

    I also came home with a bonus item, a feeder. But I'm not sure how to attach this guy.
    The middle tire on the feeder is chewed up, so you will need to replace that first.

    You would drill holes in the table of the machine you want to use the feeder on and then bolt the feeder's base to the table. Feeders aren't typically used on jointers but they are absolutely indispensable for a shaper and can be handy for ripping on a 3+ hp cabinet saw or ripping/resawing on a larger bandsaw.

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