Track Saw?

[Ed Labadie]

Spent the last few days finishing off our 3 year (yeah, I'm slow) pavillion project, covering the exposed headers with barnwood.

The tracksaw saved my fanny. Joined 3000mm & 1900mm rails together to get 16' of rail. While I have a Festool saw, I used my Hilti on this project as it uses standard 7 1/4" blades. Didn't want to chance trashing a Festool blade on a missed rusty nail.

No other easy way to get straight cuts that long on crap material.

Used the same setup (with shorter rails) a few weeks ago with an Irwin metal cutting blade to cut steel siding. Much better than a shear, nibbler or bass-ackwards plywood blade.

Ed

[Robert Parent]

I just picked up the following mini track saw..... I have not had much time to give it a workout, but it appears to be a nice saw for the investment.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...4698288&ipos=1

Robert

[George Bokros]

I just picked up the following mini track saw..... I have not had much time to give it a workout, but it appears to be a nice saw for the investment.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...4698288&ipos=1

Robert

I would be interested in your thoughts and opinion after you get to use it more. What is the bore on the blade? Reason for the question is available of other / replacement blades.

[Brian W Evans]

I used to own (before I bought a sliding table saw) the Makita track saw with both long and short tracks. It is a truly excellent piece of equipment and there is no way I would have gotten rid of it without owning a slider. I used to use the Dewalt track saw clamps with the Makita tracks. Probably didn't need to, but they are quick-grip style and didn't really take any extra time. With the stock blade, cuts were MUCH better than off my cabinet saw - almost no tearout. I would highly recommend a track saw to anyone who uses sheet goods and doesn't have a slider or a panel saw.

[Edwin Santos]

If not a search of the archives where you will find a novel's worth of discussion on track saws...... maybe the question should be "who here has a track saw and regrets buying it?" to which I predict you will hear crickets.

Satisfied Makita owner here. Dust capture is one of the big track saw advantages over the good ole' Skilsaw/sawboard combo.

If you get one, it will come with a finishing blade. Get a lower tooth count ripping blade if you choose to rip thicker stock.

[Greg R Bradley]

Are the Makita and Festool tracks identical? Actually what I want to know is, will the Makita long track work with my TS55?

Almost identical. I use my Festool and Makita track saws on my mix of Festool and Makita tracks.

You need the Makita saw on a Makita track ONLY if you want to use the anti-tip feature which really only applies to bevel cuts.

I prefer the Makita anti-splinter strips on both because the Festool dries out, which causes it to shrink and come off in a year or two in my dry climate.

[Randy Heinemann]

I own a Festool TS55 and use it in combination with the Festool MFT mostly as a cross-cut saw with some other miscellaneous uses thrown in. I swear by the accuracy of the cuts made both with the MFT table and off the table merely using the track. In fact, I recently squared up one side of my workbench by clamping the track to the bench and cutting it with the track saw.

You don't need to clamp the track in place, but I have had it move slightly in a couple of situations, so I usually clamp it where possible.

If you're considering a track saw, you should look at the range of options available for use with regular circular saws.

For me, the TS55 has provided the most accurate way of cross-cutting with great dust collection. Whether the saw works for you depends on what you want to use it for. It doesn't make sense for everyone.

[Frederick Skelly]

... maybe the question should be "who here has a track saw and regrets buying it?" to which I predict you will hear crickets.

Well said Edwin!

[Mark W Pugh]

I have one from EurekaZone, http://www.eurekazone.com/category_s/2054.htm. Works great for me in breaking down plywood and making straight edge on rough cut lumber.

[Robert Parent]

I would be interested in your thoughts and opinion after you get to use it more. What is the bore on the blade? Reason for the question is available of other / replacement blades.

George,

The blades have a standard hole size (3/8 if my memory is correct). I checked blades before purchasing the saw as I have been down that road before! The Rockwell blades (which looked to be of good quality) were about $10 to give an idea of cost.

BTW: My Dad purchased the same saw yesterday so should be able to give a couple points of view shortly.

Robert

[George Bokros]

Since I had two circ saws I bought the Eureka Zone and love it. A smaller version like the one cited above from Menards is still attractive especially for cutting things like 1/4" ply. Down side is the length of the track is short and putting that many together to make 96" would be problematic for sure as for getting it straight.

[Brad Alexander]

Menards also has a 6 ½" track saw with a 110" guide, but its in 4 pieces. Less that $200.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...9990860634.htm

Wrote this last night.

Bought one tonight. It has a few minor problems, a few burrs that didn’t get taken care of, and you have to be careful assembling the track, a good straightedge helps. But, the saw itself seems rather beefy. It pivots from the rear and the depth stop is easy to set, and it has a really long cord. A bit of paste wax on the track and the saw glides nicely.
I’m looking forward to trying it out, but, since all my plywood is out in the garage and the temps are dropping like a rock to a low of 6 tonight, I can wait.

[Tim M Tuttle]

Do any of you have track saws? I'm looking at a Shop Fox add and their add is enticing.
I wonder why they don't show prices in their adds?

I have two circular saws that I use against a straight edge, its kind of Rube Goldberg.
One is a 4" and the other an 8" side winder.

The 4" Porter Cable trim saw is a delight, the 8" side winder is scary to use. It also is Porter Cable.

I gave my 6" side winder to one of my sons with instructions about not cutting his fingers off.

In a previous life, I built houses and had a framing contractor that would cut 2X4's by holding a speed square
for a straight edge and cut the wood. I will do that, but only if the wood is resting on saw horses. That idiot would
hold the wood in his hand and cut it.

Here is the Wood Whisperer's review of the Grizzly track saw which I am guessing is the same thing as that Shop Fox you're looking at.

https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/vid...ck-saw-review/

[lowell holmes]

Old dogs sometimes forget. I forgot that one time I took plywood and made a 12"? wide strip. I fastened a 1/4" strip about 4" from one side. I then ripped the other
side with my circular saw. I then would clamp it to a plywood sheet that I wanted to rip a piece off of. I would rip the big sheet by riding my circular saw against the rip
guide on the home made rip guide. I think I may make another one. You can make the guide to any length that suits you.

[Ted Derryberry]

When I was framing I would never hold the lumber with my hand when I cut it. Its much faster and less effort to prop it up with your foot and bend over instead of picking it up to waist level. Also the board is closer to horizontal so you don't have to cock your wrist.