Pine finish - shellac, then varnish

[Jeremy Patrick]

Fountain of knowledge you are Jim! Thanks
I have heard nothing but good comments on TC products, although there are no local shops anywhere close to me so having it shipped would be my only option.
just under $40 to get a 32oz unit shipped, although I'm unsure how far that will go with spraying. Other option is seeing what the local woodcraft shop has for GF products, but I'd prefer to stick with what you know for this time around.
Only tackling the exposed areas, so headboard, footboard, drawer faceframe and drawer fronts.

[Jim Becker]

The shipping is the downside for me for the Target products I like simply because I don't use all that much in a given period of time...at least over the past x number of years. That might change given I'm retiring soon and my have more time for projects. I can actually drive to their warehouse/site in about an hour, but for that to pay off vs shipping, I still need to buy more than I can use in an acceptable time period.

[Lee Schierer]

Years ago, I made two table lamps and a floor lamp from pine that I stained and then finished with Deft Brushing Lacquer. They lasted for many years before they went to a garage sale.....and they may still be working.

I also put up pine wainscoting in our family room and finished it with oil based polyurethane finish. It sealed the wood and has held up for over 25 years. The wood aged to a golden color upon application that deepened some over the years.

[Jeremy Patrick]

Just ordered a gallon of the 6000. Aside from the current project I have on hand, I have quite a bit of baseboard and window trim I need to crank out. Figured while I'm spraying, might as well tackle a few things at once.

[Jim Becker]

Just be aware for future projects that the EM6000 doesn't really impart any color to the workpiece, so you'll want to deal with that before top coating. For your current project, the shellac will do that for you, for example. EM6000 on bare wood isn't always a look you'll like...

[Jeremy Patrick]

understood. I have a few different types of shellac flakes inbound so my interest for other pieces wouldn't just be straight 6000.

[Jeremy Patrick]

what would you say is a definite no to what 6000 should not be sprayed over, in terms of different undercoats?

[Jim Becker]

what would you say is a definite no to what 6000 should not be sprayed over, in terms of different undercoats?

Shellac should be de-waxed. If the workpiece is oiled (my standard first step in most cases) or has an older finish on something, a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac is what I do.

[Jeremy Patrick]

got it.
A good starting point for me. I'm sure I'll learn my lessons and experiment at a later point to get my own feel for things.

[Jeremy Patrick]

What is the lower end temp that can be worked with for the EM6000?
My weather up here in mid-WI looks to be holding steady in the mid 60's. Quite odd for this time of year but not much I can do about it. Have come across postings about people being able to spray shellac down to about 60 or so and still be ok. Wasn't sure about the EM6000 though.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Without looking it up, most water borne finishes require 68º+ at the bottom end for best results. While the actual finish is coalescing, the water carrier still needs to evaporate. I've gotten away with about 65º in the winter, but that was taking a chance. Shellac is much more forgiving at lower temps because that alcohol still flashes off pretty quickly.

[Jeremy Patrick]

well rats, guess I'll have to put off spraying the topcoat for a while. Looks like next week the temps will be in the low 70s. The whole summer has been a day to day forecast though, so I'll have to see how the actual temp is around lunch and make the decision from there.