Changing Down Travel on Delta Unisaw

[Floyd Cantrell]

I have a Delta Unisaw that has very limited travel below the table with a standard 10" blade, about 0.02 to .05. This is aways a problem when making zero-clearance inserts and when just lowering the blade when not in use. Has anyone changed the amount of down travel on this style of saw. In looking at the trunnion it looks like you could change engagement of the lead screw or maybe remove part of the acme thread that stops travel. I would gladly give up some height adjustment to have more down travel. It has always amazed me why the MFG would design a saw with such limited down travel. I don't want to take my top off and find it can't be done, looking for experience or good advice.

[Bob Stroman]

Raise the top. Sounds so simple that I'm sure I'll realize why it's a bad idea after a cup or two of coffee.

[Chris Giles]

I used to keep a smaller blade from a contractors saw ( I think 8" or 9") around so I could use it to raise up through a new throat plate. I also found it handy for certain ripping operations when I needed more power from the saw to get through the stock. I would be hesitant to lower the trunnion because it also lowers the maximum cutting height, and I need all the hgt I can get.

[Jim Becker]

I just use one of the outside blades from my 8" stacking dado set to "do the deed"...

[Bart Leetch]

Route a shallow slot in the bottom of your ZCI to give the blade clearance then put the ZCI in the saw start the saw & raise the blade as you normally would. Works every time. You can make several ZCI at one time while you have your router set up.

[Jerry White]

As received from the factory, a 10" blade would not adjust below the table surface on my Unisaw. Delta had me adjust the locknut at the back end of the worm shaft to take care of the problem. If you have a parts diagram for the arbor assembly, this is part #155 on the diagram. You do not have to take the top off the saw, as this adjustment is accessable through the motor cover. I must warn you, though, that the adjustment range is limited, as I wound up with a bottom point about where you are now. I, also, would love to be able to adjust to allow for convenient cutting of zero clearance inserts. I think Jim Becker or Bart Leetch has the right idea!

[Jamie Buxton]

I have a stock Unisaw with the same downtravel as yours. When I cut the slot in a new insert, I tuck the insert's rear tab into the saw and lever the front carefully down on to the blade. You don't have to get very far before the front edge drops into the saw, so it can't get thrown forward. So far, I've had no difficulties.

[Bart Leetch]

I alway thought that the idea of a ZCI was to match the width of the carbide on each blade to give a nice clean chip free cut & help keep as much of the saw dust below the table as possible. That is why I route the slot on the bottom side of the ZCI & make several ZCIs at the same time. One set up & the next time I need a ZCI its there ready to be used, just put the blade on that you want to use & go to work.

[Bruce Page]

I just use a 8" ripping blade.

[Bob Cummings]

I had the same problem with a 10 inch blade sticking 3/8 in. above the table.

I found that the back collar on the shaft had moved forward. Sliding it to the rear and tightening the set screw on the collar did the trick.

Also the right front corner of the cabinet can pack saw dust in and around the motor preventing the motor from traveling all the way to the bottom position.

The Unisaw does not do a very good job extracting sawdust with a dust collector hooked up to it. (Very poor design of the dust chute.)

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Dunno 'bout the Delta but My old school contractors saw (30 some odd years old) has little collars that cinch down on the leadscrew to stop travel.

Take a look at your lead screws. If the Delta has little collars like that on the leadscrews you could probably move one a little a get more travel

[glenn bradley]

I do what Bart does. The only place it doesn't work for me is on a 45* ZCI. My blade is 1/8" proud at 45* when fully lowered. I used a thin stamped 8" blade to start the cut and finished off with the blade to be used.

[Sam Chambers]

I just use one of the outside blades from my 8" stacking dado set to "do the deed"...

That's what I do.

I have a stock Unisaw with the same downtravel as yours. When I cut the slot in a new insert, I tuck the insert's rear tab into the saw and lever the front carefully down on to the blade. You don't have to get very far before the front edge drops into the saw, so it can't get thrown forward. So far, I've had no difficulties.

That sounds really scary, Jamie.