Spraying table apron white - three options

[Hugh MacDonald]

Ian, I'm very interested in hearing about your experience with the GF white poly... As John observes, it might be difficult finding it locally, although I was surprised to find a few small shops selling GF products in my area, and sometimes they can/will order a product they don't typically stock.

I've only sprayed a little of the KA Plus clear, but I liked it because it laid down really beautifully, dried quickly to an apparently hard coat, and sanded very nicely. I can't speak to the color or clarity because I sprayed it over a darkly stained substrate. I think the KA Plus products, clear and pigmented, are generally considered to be a little runny, so it's a common problem to get runs on vertical surfaces. To combat that people recommend spraying a light tack coat and then going back over that with a heavier coat, the light tack coat providing enhanced adhesion for the heavier coat to hold and not run. I wish I could do that, but I don't feel confident in that process because I almost always get dry spray when I spray over a just-sprayed surface. I just don't seem to know how much to put down for the preliminary tack coat or the heavier secondary coat. If someone out there is familiar with that process I'd love to get some feedback and expert advice on it.

One of the harder aspects of spraying WB coatings is that they look horrible as you apply them. If you disagree with me here, please feel free to do so vocally, and descriptively, but to put down a sufficiently heavy coat results in that wet coat initially rippling up with what appears to be horrendous orange peel (it's also like a fluorescent blue color), which makes you think you're doing something wrong. But that awful-looking wet coat eventually levels out and the blue haze completely disappears. So as you spray you're not getting any immediate, positive feedback. Instead you're relying on what you know from experience, as opposed to relying on what you're actually seeing. That's why practice is so crucial: there's no substitute for just spraying and spraying some more. However, I will point out that Sayerlack, in a product video on YouTube, claims that spraying their Hydroplus waterbornes is more like spraying solvent-based finishes in that you don't get that initial rippling and blue color, so you're getting more reliable immediate feedback as you spray. And I can say from experience that the AcromaPro is like that--you don't experience the wet orange-peel look or blue haze as you spray. The increased ease of application along with the superior-looking results are why I am touting it so much here.

[John TenEyck]

Hugh, have you sprayed any GF Enduro Clear Poly? It sprays beautifully for me. Lays down flat w/o orange peel, and if you are getting blue haze you put on far too heavy a coat. It also doesn't run on vertical surfaces unless you spray too heavily. It is about the easiest product I've ever sprayed; far easier than KA Plus. You might want to give it try. It's readily available through Homestead Finishing, Woodworker's Hardware, and probably other sources.

John

[Andy Giddings]

Ian, I'm very interested in hearing about your experience with the GF white poly... As John observes, it might be difficult finding it locally, although I was surprised to find a few small shops selling GF products in my area, and sometimes they can/will order a product they don't typically stock.

I've only sprayed a little of the KA Plus clear, but I liked it because it laid down really beautifully, dried quickly to an apparently hard coat, and sanded very nicely. I can't speak to the color or clarity because I sprayed it over a darkly stained substrate. I think the KA Plus products, clear and pigmented, are generally considered to be a little runny, so it's a common problem to get runs on vertical surfaces. To combat that people recommend spraying a light tack coat and then going back over that with a heavier coat, the light tack coat providing enhanced adhesion for the heavier coat to hold and not run. I wish I could do that, but I don't feel confident in that process because I almost always get dry spray when I spray over a just-sprayed surface. I just don't seem to know how much to put down for the preliminary tack coat or the heavier secondary coat. If someone out there is familiar with that process I'd love to get some feedback and expert advice on it.

One of the harder aspects of spraying WB coatings is that they look horrible as you apply them. If you disagree with me here, please feel free to do so vocally, and descriptively, but to put down a sufficiently heavy coat results in that wet coat initially rippling up with what appears to be horrendous orange peel (it's also like a fluorescent blue color), which makes you think you're doing something wrong. But that awful-looking wet coat eventually levels out and the blue haze completely disappears. So as you spray you're not getting any immediate, positive feedback. Instead you're relying on what you know from experience, as opposed to relying on what you're actually seeing. That's why practice is so crucial: there's no substitute for just spraying and spraying some more. However, I will point out that Sayerlack, in a product video on YouTube, claims that spraying their Hydroplus waterbornes is more like spraying solvent-based finishes in that you don't get that initial rippling and blue color, so you're getting more reliable immediate feedback as you spray. And I can say from experience that the AcromaPro is like that--you don't experience the wet orange-peel look or blue haze as you spray. The increased ease of application along with the superior-looking results are why I am touting it so much here.

I'm going to disagree about WB looking horrible but agree that practice is necessary (probably the case with all finish types though?). I spray on a vertical piece of card or scrap to get the pattern and speed of movement dialed in. Once that's done, I'm generally good to go and only adjust for tight internal corners (reduce fan, material flow and air flow to minimize blowback).

I use GF almost exclusively and find it easy to apply by following their recommendations and very forgiving (still in the learning stage as a spray finisher). As the OP has a Q5 (which is about as powerful as they come), he should be able to spray almost any finish with only minimal thinning required for the thick stuff. GF White Poly in particular is very easy to spray and looks great. As John notes, it does need a clear topcoat for a tough environment (kitchens) but is tough enough on its own for general use.