Any tricks to hiding a 45 miter that doesn't fit nice and tight?
Any tricks to hiding a 45 miter that doesn't fit nice and tight?
Glue mixed with sawdust from the wood you're using makes a good wood putty - just about anything sticks out like a sore thumb to me though. Can you remake it? If you need help with how to or your setup, please let us know.
Remaking is pretty much out of the question.
Glue and sawdust maaay work; but I have dyed cherry: so that may stick out more.
I was honestly starting to wonder if a little silicone would do the trick? Or if that would stick out more...
On what kind of thing is the joint? A picture frame, table top, box side, trim moulding, etc.?
Maybe you could shave a thin wedge and fill the gap then you have a color match. Good luck! Those times can be very frustrating.
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Personally, I do not ever us a "filler" type product, commercial or shop made for this. I cut thin slivers of the same wood and glue them into the cracks, etc., for corners, hand-cut dovetails, etc., where something needs filled, paying attention to grain direction. These become totally invisible after sanding and finishing, unlike paste/putty/other-fillers.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
It's a box side.
It actually seems to be "disappearing" as the glue dries: but who knows what the final outcome will be.
Honestly, sometimes even if you cut things "dead nuts" at 45º, the wood moves "just enough" to cause bad language. But that's where craftsmanship comes in...rarely is perfection achieved immediately. It comes after the fact when we manipulate things so they appear perfect.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Timbermate will take water or solvent based stains either by mixing it with the Timbermate or staining after. Try some. Not sure if will work with dye.
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George
Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.
The corners on box sides can often be closed by running a burnisher along the edges, sort of like rolling a burr on a scraper. The corner won't be quite as crisp, but it will be tight. Another option is to cut a kerf in the corner and glue in a piece of stock. Yet another option is to cut a rabbet in the corner and glue in a piece of stock. Many decorative boxes use these last two approaches as part of their design.
John
When I need to make multi-sided boxes, I cut the sides a bit long to the required angle. I do a trial fit and if everything fits perfectly I trim the pieces to the final length and assemble. If the fit isn't perfect, I can make a minor adjustment to all pieces and try the fit again. I repeat as necessary until I get the desired fit up. It takes a bit more time and more cuts, but far less aggravation by having gaps in corners.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
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Just fyi,something that seems so simple is actually hard for me is 45's that's perfect.As woodworkers that should be our goal,but small pieces of wood is easier than long pieces of wood.A little trick that I was showed was to put couple pieces of tape flat where the 45 is being cut which means you are raising the piece ever so slightly which means your cutting a very slight taper on the flat edge.Point being use tape as a shim to move the pieces slightly.
Getting a perfect fit is possible I have seen it but never really been able to do it I was looking at 45's on cabinet lip molding and over several doors for cabinets they were perfect,you had to look hard to see them.So it is possible
Something that escaped me early on was the importance of starting with boards that are dimensioned carefully. If they aren't perfectly flat, for instance, a perfect 45 cut will be wrong.
Could you cut through each of the mitered joints & then insert/glue a piece of contrasting color (width to suit), then re-miter & re-glue to provide a highlight for each corner?
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