Edge and corner trim for ceramic tile - how hard to use?

[Stephen Tashiro]

How hard is it for a non-professional to use metal trim pieces when setting outer corners with ceramic tile? - or on the top edge of tlle baseboards?

The tile work I've seen locally makes outer corners on ceramic tile by stopping each tile short of the corner and leaving a gap exactly along the corner. The gap is grouted. On a tile baseboard, the top edge of the tile is grouted so the grout slopes from the wall over the top of the tile. To me, it would look better to use bullnose tile or metal trim in those situations.

Bullnose tile is usually expensive and not always available, so I understand why it isn't used. But why isn't metal trim commonly used? Is it tricky or time consuming to install?

If I use metal trim on the outer corner of a baseboard and also on top of the baseboard, how should I fabricate the joint where the 3 pieces of trim meet?

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

"But why isn't metal trim commonly used?"

Cost.


"Is it tricky or time consuming to install?"

Yes and no.

All good tile work requires patience and precision. Use of the metal edging will create a flat, straight reference line that will highlight any imperfects like a lady of questionable virtue in a house of worship. With the other two more common process of creating the edge, you can fudge if your course is off or if there is some unevenness in the height of your tile or if you wall is problematic. It will still be noticeable if you look, but the variation in the grout can help hide all sorts of imperfections. If you put in a metal straight edge as a good reference point, all those imperfections will pop right out.

"If I use metal trim on the outer corner of a baseboard and also on top of the baseboard, how should I fabricate the joint where the 3 pieces of trim meet?"

Depending the manufacture of the edging, there should be pre-made pieces for interior, exterior and 3 way joints.

Here is a sample installation instruction video (I have no connection to the manufacturer)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9CCN9lS5dA

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I use the Schluter edging often. Check out their colors, profiles and sizes on their website, the options are tremendous. Sticks range from $12 to $50, depending on what you want. There are some places that nothing but a trim piece will work correctly, others where a bullnose looks best. Schluter Rondec in 100 size, RTGB color is the most common by far for me.

It's aluminum, I just cut it with my worksite mitre saw. The webbing on the backside gets set in the thinset. You can screw it on too, but it's unnecessary and makes it hard to adjust your ending grout line as you get there. As for that three corner joint, miter the two horizontal and butt the vertical. Schluter makes little end pieces that allow you to only use but joints if you prefer. I find them a clunky PITA to use, so I don't. Because you are grouting, mitres and joints can actually give a groutline if you want.

As for using the edging, I love the product, but it's a design choice. In the white shower pic below, I just mitred the tile in the wall pocket to give it a smoother look, in the wood paneled one I used Rondec as a color contrast to give it a little "zing". Both showers are incomplete in these photos, for the record.

[Wayne Lomman]

Where I am, metal trim is commonly used. It is straightforward to use. Contrary to other comments, it actually assists in getting a job straight and neat. After it is installed you have basically have guides that you can use to check your levels.

Mitres are not too hard. Use a bit of scrap or even scrap timber to calculate the cuts required.

When cutting the extrusions with a drop saw, remember that they are thin walled and therefore can grab on the blade. Cut them together with a piece of timber at the same time and remember to wax the blade. Cheers