Paint over Maloof finish

[Stuart Welsh]

I'm building a cabinet that I hope replicates an antique piece I saw in a store. The inspiration piece is about 100 years old and has an aged, dried out finish on the exterior and was at a later date painted on the inside. The paint finish was crudely done and allows the color of the wood to show thru in places. As this is a new piece that I will apply varnish/tung oil to inside and out I wonder how soon after applying that finish I can paint over. Can I use latex, which I feel will give me a better washed look than an oil as well as the flat finish I desire. Thoughts?

[Rob Young]

I'm building a cabinet that I hope replicates an antique piece I saw in a store. The inspiration piece is about 100 years old and has an aged, dried out finish on the exterior and was at a later date painted on the inside. The paint finish was crudely done and allows the color of the wood to show thru in places. As this is a new piece that I will apply varnish/tung oil to inside and out I wonder how soon after applying that finish I can paint over. Can I use latex, which I feel will give me a better washed look than an oil as well as the flat finish I desire. Thoughts?

Rough guess, but oil finishes usually have a 21 day (3 week) to full cure.

Seal with a spitcoat of shellac first before painting.

Don't use latex paint intended for walls, it is too soft.

Latex-enamel or acrylic (better choice) paint or caisen (milk) paint for a wash coat look.

Then still could need a clear coat over that which can also be used to manipulate the sheen. I've wondered about GF Flat out Flat as a topcoat on maybe a painted chair. At least for the parts that would get wear as I assume the rubbing from getting up and down on a chair would cause a lot of microscratches and thus flatten the sheen.