Planer or drum sander

[Chance Raser]

First, I fully understand the difference in the two, and that they both serve a different purpose, and they compliment each other.

My question is, if you only had budget for one of them right now, which would you buy first? I have a pm60 jointer for squaring up, and have been doing a lot more segmented turning. The drum sander would really help getting good segmented rings after the ring glue up prior to the stack glue up. But if the wood I start with isn't consistent in the beginning then the drum sander is going to take forever if at all.

I think my inner battle is that i always need to sand the rings, regardless of how consistent the wood thickness I start with which makes me lean toward the drum sander first.

I found a Delta 31-260x for $350. I've been looking for a used planer in that budget range.

So, planer or drum sander first?

[Peter Kelly]

Planer. Even a cheapie lunchbox style one for $350 will initially be more useful than a drum sander.

[andy bessette]

For general woodworking and cabinetmaking, definitely a thickness plane. If all you're doing is turning segmented rings, I can't help you because that is a narrow specialty.

[Mike Cutler]

My first inclination is the planer. There are many ways to sand something smooth and flat, but only a planer makes material a uniform thickness.

How uniform is the thickness of the material you're sourcing for your segmented turning? If it's a nominal 4/4, it should be close enough for a drum sander to possibly work for you for this specific task.

[John K Jordan]

First, I fully understand the difference in the two, and that they both serve a different purpose, and they compliment each other.

My question is, if you only had budget for one of them right now, which would you buy first? I have a pm60 jointer for squaring up, and have been doing a lot more segmented turning. The drum sander would really help getting good segmented rings after the ring glue up prior to the stack glue up. But if the wood I start with isn't consistent in the beginning then the drum sander is going to take forever if at all.
I think my inner battle is that i always need to sand the rings, regardless of how consistent the wood thickness I start with which makes me lean toward the drum sander first.
I found a Delta 31-260x for $350. I've been looking for a used planer in that budget range.
So, planer or drum sander first?

Depends on what you want to do. Thickness sizing lumber for flatwork - planer. Thin and short stock, the drum sander. The segmented rings, the sander. The sander is ok to flatten almost flat stock but very slow to change the thickness - must use very light passes and still some woods will easily burn.

Most of my shop time is woodturning. I haven't used my planer for several years. I have a Performax 22-44 drum sander and I use it to flatten solid round blanks cut from planks to prepare for stacked glue-ups for turning. I use it to flatten thin resawn pieces (thick veneer) for stacking and gluing also. I sometimes run turning rough squares through it to flatten and expose the figure/color before our club wood auction - they always bring higher bids that way! I would hate to have to run long boards through the drum sander.

JKJ

[Matt Day]

planer hands down

[Steve Demuth]

Depends on what you want to do. Thickness sizing lumber for flatwork - planer. Thin and short stock, the drum sander. The segmented rings, the sander. The sander is ok to flatten almost flat stock but very slow to change the thickness - must use very light passes and still some woods will easily burn.

Most of my shop time is woodturning. I haven't used my planer for several years. I have a Performax 22-44 drum sander and I use it to flatten solid round blanks cut from planks to prepare for stacked glue-ups for turning. I use it to flatten thin resawn pieces (thick veneer) for stacking and gluing also. I sometimes run turning rough squares through it to flatten and expose the figure/color before our club wood auction - they always bring higher bids that way! I would hate to have to run long boards through the drum sander.

JKJ

John is absolutely spot on. The sander isn't very useful for thicknessing. The planer is useless for short, very thin, or for most purposes, end grain work.

The Delta 31-260X last sold new for north of $1000. It was discontinued over 5 years ago and parts availability is a challenge. And it's a machine that easily eats some of its own parts (in particular the belts and gears on the thickness adjustment), and isn't very well designed compared to it's direct competition. I've got one. I paid $500 for it used, but not over-used. I'm close to ready to give it away and replace it with a Performax or something better that won't require constant adjustment, can track a belt, and isn't generally a pain in the a__. I'd say buy a used one only if you're comfortable putting a lot of time into fixing, adjusting and learning its idiosyncrasies.

[Alan Lightstone]

No question, the planer. I own and use both all the time, on most projects, but if you could only own one, it would be the planer. IMHO.

[Don Jarvie]

If your going to mainly be turning the drum sander especially for segmented work. You can buy planed wood for the turning so the drum sander is a big help to flatten each segment after glue up. I use the hand sanding method which is very time consuming.

If you turn occasionally but do more woodworking then the planer. Rough lumber is cheaper and you can make sure the wood is flat. No guarantee with finished stock.

[Bradley Gray]

I'll go against the grain (groan) and say get the sander. Since you are dealing with small amounts of wood, sizing with the sander won't be that bad, especially if you joint 1 side first.

No way would you be able to size your segmented rings with a planer

[Roger Marty]

I am constantly using my $399 DeWalt lunchbox planer. A fantastic tool. Does everything I need it to do. I don't see the need to upgrade it.

[Bill Dufour]

One issue may well be what thickness the two tools can take. For home owner grade I think the sanders normally can work a little thicker stock. Is four inches enough or would six make a difference? I think my planer maxes out at a little over 4".
I upgraded from a 6" to a 8" jointer once I realized most drawer faces I was making were over 6" wide but under 8". The upgrade means no glue ups to sand flat. just run them through the jointer and planer in one piece. No way am I going to get a jointer big enough to run a cabinet door face in one piece.
Bill

[Chance Raser]

Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate the insight from those of you that have the sander in question and I think the general consensus is a planer. I think I'll continue looking for a planer. Thanks all.

[Roger Marty]

I joint 10" pieces in my 6" planer. Flipping then around surprising works.