"Starter" Planer - Which one, or Bad Idea?

[John M Wilson]

I'm a relative woodworking noob, and to this point, I have used S4S lumber from one of the Borgs for my projects.

I do not have a planer, and have been saving my money for a high quality combo machine (buy once, cry once).

I had intended for my next project to be a barbecue cart, made out of cedar. The cedar boards at both local Borgs, however, have one rough side. I did manage to smooth one board out using hand planes, but (aside from the time) I realized that I was not going to end up with a consistent thickness among all the boards, and in some cases even within a single board. (Revealing my low level of Neander skills.) I know that having consistent stock prepared in the jointing/planing/cut-to-size method is crucial for getting beyond the handyman stage and earning my woodworking chops.

My conclusion: I need a planer (thicknesser). At the moment, I really don't have the space or the money for the ultimate machine (Hammer A3-31 or equivalent). So, even though I know it's more expensive in the long run, I'm thinking a small lunchbox planer would meet my needs until the dream machine is a reality.

So, here's my question (finally): Since this will be a temporary short-term fix, is the Dewalt 735 worth the extra $$ over the 734? Or should I keep my losses to the minimum, get the 734 and save the extra money for later? Or, is there an option I have overlooked?

I have been checking the local Craigslist, and the lunchbox planers that have been listed are either neglected used-up disasters, or priced within a couple dollars of a new unit, so I'm thinking of buying reconditioned from CPO.

Any opinions will be greatly appreciated...

[Mick Simon]

I can't speak for the 734, but the 735 can serve you very well for a long, long time and have a higher resale when you do get the A3-31. Anytime someone asks about a portable planer the consensus is nearly unanimous for the 735. With either, it's best to invest in good quality cobalt knives since the ones that come on it wear pretty quickly.

[andy bessette]

Find one of the older Delta 13" heavy duty models. Mine produces no snipe.

[Bradley Gray]

Do get a cheaper planer for now. I would look on Craig's list for a used one - you can likely resell it for about what you pay for it

[andy bessette]

Do get a cheaper planer for now...

I really don't understand this approach, buying 2 planers.

This is identical to the one I have. Perhaps the seller would be open to a reasonable offer.
https://nashville.craigslist.org/tls...306987768.html

[glenn bradley]

I guess I should have mentioned that the 735 is 13" and the 734 is 12-1/2". Both are three knifed machines. As to floor machines, lunchbox planers are finish planers and this is what a lot of hobbyists may be after. Some floor machines run serrated steel feed rollers and while this is great for planing really rough stuff, many floor planer owners have posted about retrofitting rubber feed rollers for their machines. I just backed the tension way off on mine and the problem of the serrated rollers leaving marks is rare now. My point is that these are machines with a slightly different targeted use, not just large and small version of the same thing.

Don't get me wrong, I love my 15" floor machine and would recommend one to anyone. My 734 went to a pro shop with a couple of large floor machines and one DW-734 of their own. They wanted a spare 734 since they used it so much more than the larger machines. They didn't want to be without one if their current one got worked to death.

[John M Wilson]

I really don't understand this approach, buying 2 planers.

I agree it's not the most efficient way... but:

1) I don't have a dedicated shop (yet) -- I'm working out of my garage that I use to park cars, so I have to put away my toys when I'm done playing.

2) I'm not wired for 240 volts (yet) -- which knocks out most of the old arn worth having, including the planer in the link.

3) I know I probably should be patient, and do things in the right order, but that seems to entail quite of bit of shop building before I get to woodworking building.

I don't want to waste money on something foolish, but it does seem that having correctly dimensioned lumber is fundamental to any project.

I know many others have faced similar circumstances, and appreciate the vast amount of experience and knowledge on the 'creek. Obviously, there are many paths, and I'm struggling to find mine, so I'm considering any and all comments. Thanks to all...

[andy bessette]

You're going to need 220 in your shop. If your main electrical panel is not far from the shop/garage it should be easy to run a 220 extension cord. My mill and planer run on a 25' cord.

[Nick Decker]

Andy,

I don't see how you can say that he's going to need 220 without knowing what he plans to do. I'm a renter and 220 isn't an option, yet I seem to get by just fine.

[andy bessette]

...have been saving my money for a high quality combo machine...this will be a temporary short-term fix...

Andy, I don't see how you can say that he's going to need 220 without knowing what he plans to do. I'm a renter and 220 isn't an option, yet I seem to get by just fine.

Though you seem to have missed it, the OP was pretty clear about saving his $ for a quality machine, and asking about a short-term fix. Having been a woodworker for many decades I know that many quality machines require 220-volts. It is just fine with me that you get by without 220. I did when I first started out. But most of us will find ourselves needing it sooner or later. It isn't that hard. Even girls do it.

[Michelle Rich]

yes girls do it. I built,& wired my own shop & and bought all my own tools. I built my own house and wired it. I made all my furniture. Girls are good but Women do it even better.

[Chris Hachet]

yes girls do it. I built,& wired my own shop & and bought all my own tools. I built my own house and wired it. I made all my furniture. Girls are good but Women do it even better.

This is priceless, thank you for this response.

[Bill Dufour]

I have a old parks 12 planer and they can be found around. BTY The article about adjusting your planer from FWW is a parks 12". Make sure any planer you do buy can open deep enough to thickness the wood you will need. Is 4" enough or do you need 6"? for the occasional 6x6"

[Bill Dufour]

When I was adding tools to the shop I looked every time I went to HD or Lowes at their wire Remanent rack. I was able to buy #8 or #10 cord for a good price. Nothing more then ten feet or so. But nice to make extension cords, power cords, switch gear wiring to motors etc where you only need 18" or so.
They often had 4 conductor cord for cheap(relative) that they do not even carry or order?
Shortly after buying our current house I bought a good size coil of unisulated solid ground wire #12 or #10. it works great to tie plants up.
Bill

[Keith Westfall]

What do you have now? Oh, right - nothing. So anything will be better than that. I found a good deal years ago, on a Riged lunch box, and like you, it was/will be a hundred times better than what you have now.

Is bigger and better better? Of course it is, but only if you can afford it and you need it. Maybe someday you will, but do you go without until then?

Maybe after you have it for awhile and use it a lot, and/or get a chance to use someone else's you might want a different one. Buy what you can, use it and learn, and then upgrade. You won't really be disappointed, because you have nothing to compare it with. Except to your hand plane, and it will be better than that.