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Does the saw have a bent sheet metal base with a rounded edge on the side? If so the saw may be creeping up the guide and moving slightly over into the guide rail. Keep pressure on the saw so it can not climb up off the wood.
Bill
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I think the issue with your circular saw, making this cut, against a straightedge is assuming the base edge of the saw is precisely parallel to the blade. If it is not parallel, then the cut will wander one way or the other (but not both). You could make a test cut and then learn from the test cut to adjust your clamp on rip fence to account for the fact the blade wants to run out. Lets say, in you picture its 1/8" over 10 inches. Make a 1/8" compensation to the appropriate direction and away you go. That's the simplest thing to do.
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Adam, I would suggest reading about the "5 cut method" (4 cuts really) to check your table saw/miter gauge for square. Google 5 cut method+table saw, you should find info. I made a circle saw guide like the guys on woodsmith shop use. With a well set up circle saw it can be pretty repeatable but if the line isn't square the cut won't be.
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It looked to me like it pushed in, if so, the straight edge might be flexing in.
If it drives out, probably the saw pulling away.
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Isn't this the hardest thing to do in woodworking?
Making something square is not necessaraly easy.
First, define how square is square. The actual squareness required depends on application.
To make something square, you must square the tool you're cutting with, with something square, that's been measured square by a technique/tool that guarantees it is square.
Just saying. How square does it need to be?
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buy/borrow/rent a track saw...
for sheet goods it's the best.
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