1/8 side leg on a gripper and my tablesaw
1/8 side leg on a gripper and my tablesaw
Yes, skilsaw blades (or circular saw) fit your Griz. Both have 5/8" arbor.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
I get the impression that he will be doing both cross-cutting and ripping to make the pieces he described. I don't think a handsaw is going to do the job for ripping many 1/4 x 1/4 pieces but it can certainly do the job for cutting the pieces to length. I think I need to know more about what the stock size is though before making recommendations on what tools to use.
For Joe,
This would do the job for the OP, but probably out of the budget for the needs. Its a Byrnes Model Machine table saw, $450. There are plenty of accessories to go with it, like a micrometer, extended rip fence and others. You can do some very precise work with this saw. No problems ripping 4/4 hardwood, not fast, but it'll get the job done.
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Very handy for those small pieces.
Dennis
For model building and other small scale woodworking requiring great precision I have an ancient 8" Sears cast iron, tilt-table saw fitted with a 4" 40-tooth carbide blade and homemade zero clearance insert. Though portable it is extremely heavy, but does remarkably accurate work. I've owned this saw for many decades, so don't know its present value. But surely these can be purchased rather cheaply.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
I'm basically starting with 3ft x 7ft x 3in cherry slabs end taking off what I need from there.
And yes the issue is with all cuts tiny weather or be crosscut, rip, or 45 Deg miter. I thought about getting one of the small 7in kobalt miter saws for at least handling the crosscut and 45s but I am liking the idea of a sled 4 my old job site saw better and better. I would prefer one that is already pre-made but I am not sure if such a thing even exist for the small jobsite saws. I have been considering the Rockler and incra versions for my grizzly.
I would want to re-saw and thickness plane the slabs to a more manageable thickness - lets say 1/4 inch like you need for the finished parts. So,to do the re-saw you'd want the bandsaw, then you could finish on the tablesaw with rip fence and / or sled. If you do go the table saw sled method make sure its a zero clearance base so you can more safely handle the off-cuts from small pieces.
Last edited by Pat Barry; 11-20-2017 at 3:14 PM.
I like the Nobex mitre saws for crosscutting small stuff. Incredibly accurate and fast.
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You can try benchtop table saw, you need some sort of surface to use it on.
They are generally small and easy to move around, so they will sit neatly on a small workshop bench or any other sort of makeshift platform.
They would be right at home on a makeshift bench made out of sawhorses and a sheet of wood, or on an outdoor table, or any place like that.
Some benchtop table saws will include a stand, but most wont the option to pay a little extra for one to be included is more common.
For the type of detail work the OP wants to do, a typical mass-market bench top saw isn't going to have the precision needed most likely. That's why in a few posts above, some of the specialized model-making bench top saws were offered as an alternative as they are specifically designed for small work and have much closer tolerances.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Interesting thread. I noticed nobody recommended the GRR Micro Jig. Is this designed to do exactly what the OP needs? - or is it just for ripping?
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Well you could go the sliding table handsaw route. Watch the video.
A zero clearance insert (ZCI) would be a good start.
NOW you tell me...
As mentioned earlier, a Hammond Glider.
They were a printers saw.......
Ed