One more about the Veritas VMII chisels

[Dennis Droege]

In my opinion, these chisels stay sharper longer than any others I've used, and they are not hard to sharpen.

[Frederick Skelly]

Dennis, what sharpening media are you using? Diamond, ceramic, etc?

[steven c newman]

Info-mercial?

[Simon MacGowen]

Info-mercial?

You bet.

But that's not restricted to one particular company or brand, AND certainly not to new tools only.

Simon

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Info-mercial?

And for just 35 easy payments of $19.99 I will send you a set!

My set seems to get and stay pretty sharp. I always feel like I am abusive to my chisels when I am cutting my dovetails. I really need to reread Derek's post about what angles he uses..... I have not done any testing to see which requires less frequent honing during use.

I will admit, however, that for most things I just grab the closest properly sized chisel and use it; I try to keep all of them sharp and ready to.

I have been practicing my half blind dovetails since I have that fancy new half blind tool from Ron (https://www.bontzsawworks.net/half-blind-dovetail-tool/). Some day I might make one from a paint scraper like someone here did..... Then again, the one I have works very well so far, and since time is at a premium, maybe not.

I grabbed a mortise chisel to clear the initial waste from the half blinds, at least for the last couple that I did.

[Jim Koepke]

I grabbed a mortise chisel to clear the initial waste from the half blinds, at least for the last couple that I did.

That sounds a bit awkward.

My last foray into half blind dovetails had me using a forestner bit to remove the initial waste. It did speed things up, but a mistake can be nasty. DAMHINT!

jtk

[Andrew Pitonyak]

That sounds a bit awkward.

My last foray into half blind dovetails had me using a forestner bit to remove the initial waste. It did speed things up, but a mistake can be nasty. DAMHINT!

jtk

My process is as follows:

1. Mark it (well duh)
2. Make an initial cut with the saw
3. Use that Ron Bontz half blind tool to "finish the cut" on the sides to the base line all the way back.
4. Use a regular chisel to deepen the mark at the lower base line (so not into the end grain).
5. use the mortise chisel to chop down into the end grain. Because I deepened the mark first, the wood brakes. I initially take a very thin cut. I can really use any chisel for the first cut.
6. Sometimes I repeat step 4 at this point.
7. Use the mortise chisel in the end grain again, working my way back towards the line, but I do not hit the line. This is very fast, and because of the mortise chisel geometry, it is very fast and quickly removes material.
8. I then finish it off with regular chisels cleaning up the sides and bottom. This includes the final pairing to the back line pushing down into the end grain.

[Jim Koepke]

My process is as follows:

1. Mark it (well duh)
2. Make an initial cut with the saw
3. Use that Ron Bontz half blind tool to "finish the cut" on the sides to the base line all the way back.
4. Use a regular chisel to deepen the mark at the lower base line (so not into the end grain).
5. use the mortise chisel to chop down into the end grain. Because I deepened the mark first, the wood brakes. I initially take a very thin cut. I can really use any chisel for the first cut.
6. Sometimes I repeat step 4 at this point.
7. Use the mortise chisel in the end grain again, working my way back towards the line, but I do not hit the line. This is very fast, and because of the mortise chisel geometry, it is very fast and quickly removes material.
8. I then finish it off with regular chisels cleaning up the sides and bottom. This includes the final pairing to the back line pushing down into the end grain.

My process on half blind dovetails includes sawing an extra kerf in the center and taking it to the base line with the Ron Bontz half blind tool. This makes popping the waste out very quick and easy.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

My past use of 'riding the bevel' is for situations such as lateral chopping at the bottom corners of a mortise where the bevel can slide along the bottom. Can't do that any other way.

Try a swan neck or lock mortise chisel, they are the cat's pajamas for such things.

jtk

[Dennis Droege]

Frederick, for the last year or so I've been using diamond plates and leather. I've had a lifelong fondness for stones, though. It's just that the diamonds (coarse) seem to take the material off faster during the initial work with less mess.

[Derek Cohen]

In my opinion, these chisels stay sharper longer than any others I've used, and they are not hard to sharpen.

Tools always seem to bring out the religous zealots. There are guys on this, and other, forums who simply cannot abide anything nice being said about a tool or manufacturer on the "other side". So-called premium tools drive the bargain hunter wild. And bargain tools aapear to threaten the self esteem of those that paid more .. often a lot more. Let's not even begin to discuss which sharpening stone or method is better.

I have done tests on tools to determine some factors, such as the longevity of the edge of different chisel steel types. This type of test is not to be constued as "which chisel is best". The fact is that there are too many factors in choosing a chisel that make this an impossible mission. For example, how does one decide on such subjective issues involved in the design of a handle? What is comfortable to me may not be so for you, or what I like in the aesthetic department is sure to irritate another.

But one thing I can say with confidence is that the PM-V11 steel blades will last longer than the HCS of a vintage Stanley 750 or a Marples boxwood (I have sets of both), since I have compared these and written about them. The results were decisive. PM-V11 scored 100 goals and 1950 (whatever) HCS score 10.

This has nothing to say about the chisel I like to use. I have a set of PM-V11 that live on my bench. I also have a set of Marples boxwood that do the same. For chopping or heavier work, the PM come out. The handles of the Veritas are really great in my hands, but I do prefer the slimmer and lighter blades of the Marples ... what I do not like is that the edges need more frequent work, and usually when I am hyperfocussing on a task. I also love the Blue Spruce chisels I have owned for more than a decade. This is the original set of detail/dovetail chisels. Beautiful chisels, exceptional handles, and I love their lightness. Not mad about the A2 steel ... although, to be fair, it gets really sharp and hold this longer than the HCS.

The Veritas live on my bench for the simple reason that they are a great allrounder. They do a bit of everything well. The edge holding is shaded by Japanese chisels, such as Koyamaichi. The handles are excellent, although the Blue Spruce are nicer looking and the boxwood Marples just have this amazing aesthetic to my eyes. I do wish that Veritas would bring out a set of PM chisels with slimmer blades, something along the lines of the BS. But perhaps they might not then chop as well, and their top all rounder status be lost.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stewie Simpson]

Earlier made HCS steel offer me too many advantages to change.

Stewie;

[Warren Mickley]

I use Cast Steel chisels (English, 19th Century). Whenever I try to duplicate Derek's tests I get better results for longevity than any of the chisels in his tests. This may be due to sharpening media, sharpening technique, or technique in using the chisels as well as properties of the chisels themselves.

[Derek Cohen]

I use Cast Steel chisels (English, 19th Century). Whenever I try to duplicate Derek's tests I get better results for longevity than any of the chisels in his tests. This may be due to sharpening media, sharpening technique, or technique in using the chisels as well as properties of the chisels themselves.

Warren, what can anyone say? Anyone here with an intimate knowledge of cast steel chisels? I do have Ward oval bolstered mortice chisels, which are laminated. They are excellent blades. I have never used a Butcher bench chisel. I would not know where to find one. I do keep an eye out, but all I have seen (on eBay) are worn out versions. They would not tell me anything. No doubt you could pop down to your local market and find some. Not happening any time soon in my neck of the woods.

As to technique, no doubt you are streets ahead of me. I am not competing with you. Are you competing with me? I report what I find, providing as much documentation so that others - like yourself - can replicate what I did. I mentioned earlier why I like what I like. I don't expect everyone to agree.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Simon MacGowen]

As to technique, no doubt you are streets ahead of me.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Why being so humble, Derek?

Unless someone knows and uses a super-secret technique that we don't know, your sharpening technique is fine and is just as good as anyone else's.

I am now convinced sharpening has been made to appear to be hard because of all the hair-splitting discussions. To a great extent, that was why many beginners found Paul Seller's method refreshing and do-able. I call it a no BS approach using just diamond stones with no maintenance costs. Rob Cosman jumps from 1000x to 8000x and his technique is fine, too. So is the meticulous approach of David Charlesworth. Needless to say, mine works just as well which is different from all of the above.

Simon