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Thread: table saw question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Carrollton, Georgia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Yes. On a cabinet saw/contractors' style saw with a left-tilting blade, you can safely bevel cut a board or panel with the material between the rip fence and the blade. To do that on a right-tilting arbor, you really need the material to the right of the blade and only sliding table saws are equipped to do that well.

    Right-tilt saws normally have the fence to the left of the blade and, with the material between the fence and the blade, the set-up is the same, and as safe, as left-tilt, just reverse.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
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    1,830
    I have a right tilt Unisaw that came with the 54" Unifence fence rail and extension table on the right side but with a cast iron extension on the left side. Most of my cutting is on the right side of the blade with my Unifence on the right of the blade, but whenever that will be a problem, I move the Unifence to the left side of the blade, switch the fence extrusion to the right side of the Unifence main casting, and make the cut with the blade angled away from the fence. It doesn't matter which way your saw tilts, as long as you can move the fence to both sides of the blade and you can remember to change sides when the cut will pinch the board between the blade and fence. Make the change to keep this from happening and use the saw.

    My last saw was left tilt and the longer table and fence was left of the saw blade, but I would switch the fence to the right side if the cut would cause the same problem. You just have to learn your saw's capabilities and the kinds of cuts to be avoided, no matter which way the blade tilts. If you like the blade tilting one way over the other, then buy a saw to suit you, just figure out which cuts need to be done on the less common side of the blade. It really doesn't matter left or right otherwise.

    Charley

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,990
    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    Right-tilt saws normally have the fence to the left of the blade and, with the material between the fence and the blade, the set-up is the same, and as safe, as left-tilt, just reverse.
    I think you'll find that it's very uncomfortable to move the fence to the left of the blade. It's not common for someone to do this unless they are going to do a narrow rip with a bevel. This is why left-tilt saws have become much more common and desirable in the past couple of decades...you get bevels and the table space to apply them to panels.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carrollton, Georgia
    Posts
    1,815
    I believe left-tilt saws are more comfortable for woodworkers who like to push the work through using their rignt hand (right handed people) and right-tilt for lefties. The fact that there are so many more right handed people accounts for the larger number of left-tilt saws over right.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Putnam ct
    Posts
    56
    Yeah, really good point, I have moved the fence to the left of the blade to do some bevels in the past, another reason to have some table available on the left. If the rails are long enough the fence can be mounted to accommodate this, my current unisaw setup has the blade almost in the center which suited the work i was doing with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Lent View Post
    I have a right tilt Unisaw that came with the 54" Unifence fence rail and extension table on the right side but with a cast iron extension on the left side. Most of my cutting is on the right side of the blade with my Unifence on the right of the blade, but whenever that will be a problem, I move the Unifence to the left side of the blade, switch the fence extrusion to the right side of the Unifence main casting, and make the cut with the blade angled away from the fence. It doesn't matter which way your saw tilts, as long as you can move the fence to both sides of the blade and you can remember to change sides when the cut will pinch the board between the blade and fence. Make the change to keep this from happening and use the saw.

    My last saw was left tilt and the longer table and fence was left of the saw blade, but I would switch the fence to the right side if the cut would cause the same problem. You just have to learn your saw's capabilities and the kinds of cuts to be avoided, no matter which way the blade tilts. If you like the blade tilting one way over the other, then buy a saw to suit you, just figure out which cuts need to be done on the less common side of the blade. It really doesn't matter left or right otherwise.

    Charley
    Built guitars in my basement for 10 years, mistakes went in the wood stove, was rarely cold.

    Best funny woodworker line: "My worst fear is when I die my wife will sell all my tools for what I told her I paid for them"

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
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    1
    My saw sits in the middle of the shop with saw table space on both sides and I also made an out feed table for it.
    I would not do without any of the tables. The table on the right side of the saw came with the saw and has a router station in it.
    The rip guide is handy to it as well. I have a 2000 vintage Delta Contractor's saw with a Unifence
    You may remember the Unifence saw table is extended on the right. I have a 10" Tenyru carbide blade in it.
    The saw is 17 years old and just does not have any issues.

    I have a router mounted in the right side saw table, the rip fence will go all the way to the end of the table.
    I jumpered the motor to run on 220V. I can rip 4x8 plywood or anything else I need to.
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 12-20-2017 at 2:45 PM.

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