If you're actually going to buy a tracksaw, think ahead about how you'd be using it. Among other tasks, I use mine to break down sheets of plywood. To do this, the track must be over eight feet long. I did a quick scan of the Triton product, and didn't see a long track offered. The need for an eight foot track does ratchet up the cost of a true track saw. You can make your own eight foot straightedge for only a few bucks, and buy a good sidewinder like the ones Bruce suggests, and be in business for much much less than a true track saw.
To make your own straightedge, just use 6-8 inches of the edge of a sheet of plywood. The factory edge is generally quite straight. You can test a potential straightedge. Put it down on something you can draw on. Draw a line guided by the straightedge. Now flip the straightedge over so the other face is down. Compare the drawn line to the straightedge. The difference between the two is twice the error in the staightedge. If it is small enough for you, you're done. If it is too big, use a handplane to trim the high spots. Or just try another factory edge. In either case, you should be able to come up with a straightedge for only a few bucks. You might even have the plywood hanging around now.
Get the Festool. You'll wish you had bought it sooner.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
About 8 years ago, I bought a Makita 5007 MGA circular saw and a Eureka Zone straight edge guide system for breaking down plywood for cabinets. The circular saw is great and has a brake. It is light and comfortable to handle.
I built a cart for cutting so that I can move it to the shelf where I store sheet goods on their sided on a shelf at about 3 feet off the floor. Alone, I can tip the plywood on to the cart. The table of the cart is 6"wide strips of plywood standing on edge and locked together so they form a checker board. These strips of plywood are sacrificial. I lay the plywood sheet on the cart, lay out the cuts, set up the straight edge guide and make the cut. Typically, I can get the panels square within a 32nd. I already give up a lot of space to store the sheets of plywood and I didnt want to give up another 8 feet plus of wall space for a panel saw.
I have about $425 total wrapped up in this system (saw and guide), but it doesn't take up a lot of floor space or wall space. There is an ongoing cost for the straight edge guide anti-chip edges but it hasnt been too bad.
I am sure there are nicer set ups out there, but I would do this again if I was faced with the same situation.
Last edited by Rich Aldrich; 01-20-2018 at 6:18 AM.
Thank you,
Rich Aldrich
65 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf.
"To a pessimist, the glass is half empty; to an optimist, the glass is half full; to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be." Unknown author
I can't get over the plastic housings on power tools these days.
My original Dewalt had a metal housing. The stuff you can get these days is plastic. Are the plastic housings supposed to keep
you from being shocked, or just to save on manufacturing costs?
My current saw is lighter than the first one though.
Take a look at Eurekazone.com and see if their circular saw + guide rail system which provide very accurate and clean cuts would meet 99.9% of your needs. For cutting 48" lengths I recommend use of the 64" guide rail to provide a starting pad.
Their smart base will fit on most circular saws, but the corded Makita circular saws seem to be the most popular. You could buy the saw now, and then add the smart base and guide rails later, as finances allow.
Given that the track and smart base affect depth of cut, watch to make sure your cut depth needs would be met.
Last edited by Ken Kortge; 01-20-2018 at 10:32 AM.
A 1x4 and c-clamps work for me. I made a plywood straight edge one time also. It may still be around.
I have not used it, but Menards unveiled their version today. Priced at $177 after rebate. Looks a lot like the Triton. Dan https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/power-saws-accessories/masterforce-reg-6-1-2-plunge-cut-track-saw-kit-with-110-track/2410706/p-1489990860634.htm?utm_campaign=4A-2018&utm_content=11%-Rebate-Sale&utm_source=flipp&utm_medium=flyer_hosted
Well Jason,
After all of these responses, have you made up your mind.
I know I couldn't easily decide.
My new Dewalt side winder has a plastic housing and a formed steel black base. I think it is ugly and I really don't like the feel of the saw.
My old saw had a metal housing and felt like a tool when I used it.
I suspect there are other old dogs out there that share my sentiments. When I was younger, I disregarded old dogs comments. So now it is payback time.
I feel blessed to have pain free old age though.
My new saw cuts quite well.
Worm drive saws spin the blade at a lower speed than their smaller, side drive, brethren, that extra torque means they can hog out a lot of material easily and work all day long.
But that slower speed also has an impact on cut finish, you'll get a better finish with the higher blade speed of a side drive circular saw.
Unless you're planning on using it for major framing and other construction projects, there's really no need for a worm drive saw.