Low or Standard Angle Block Plane

[Todd Franks]

Let me start off by saying I'm a power tool addict discovering the joy of working with hand tools. This should level set my experience with hand planes. The Denver WW show is next weekend and both LN and LV will be there so I'm hoping to pick up a block plane after demoing both. My question is should I be looking for a low angle or standard angle? I anticipate planing mostly face grain with it. I need a plane to clean up saw and jointer marks from the edges of boards, face frames, etc. I realize I'll discover many more uses for a block plane, but this is my motivation for wanting a block plane. After looking through some past posts in this forum I've noticed some people say that the low angle is more versatile. I currently have a new LA Stanley block plane and hate it. When planing face grain I get lots of tear out, although this may due to my inexperience with hand planes. The higher cutting angle of a standard block plane seems more appropriate for use on face grain, so my initial thought was that's what I should get. I'm confused now after reading some past post saying that the low angle was more versatile. I thought LA planes were for end grain. It seems to me that the LA would present potential problems on face grain. If someone could steer me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Todd

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Todd...it is confusing, even to long time users.

The concept of LA planes with high angle (HA) blades is what is meant when the LA plane is said to be more versatile. In other words, one can use a blade with a shallow bevel (LA blade) and it is great on end grain and soft woods like Cedar and the like. Put a blade with a steeper bevel (HA blade) and its effective cutting angle is as steep or steeper (depending on the bevel angle) than a regular bevel down plane.

Confused yet? It probably gets worse <g>.

Either block plane, one with a 20 degree bed for the iron (regular) or a 12 degree bed (low angle) will do much of what you want to do.

Neither will do the face grain as effeciently as a larger plane, though. Consider getting a Lee valley low angle smoother along with either the LN or LV block plane of either regular or la version. The LV LA smoother will be a good addition. You can, aside from the uses you mention, smoother faces easily and it can be used on a shooting board once you slide down the hand tool slope a little further <g>.

Also, if you decide to get the LV LA smoother, consider the LN 102 in either bronze or ductile iron. Fit in the pocket or in a holster they sell. Wonderful plane to knock edges back. Always at hand.

Well, my wife just looked over my shoulder and scolded me for answering beyond your question...so I better disappear back out to the shop <g>.

Take care, Mike

[Mark Singer]

I like the 60 1/2 low angle LN...It just seems to be a favorite after many different block planes that i have used

[Dan Forman]

Todd---For the type of work you are describing, you might be better seved with a larger plane, I would suggest the LV low angle jack, which is one of the most versatile planes around, particulary if you pick up an extra blade, the one with the 38 degree bevel. It sounds to me that you will want a longer sole than would be found on the smaller block planes.

That said, I have the LN 60 1/2, and like it a lot, though I haven't had a chance to try out the LV LA block. I do have the LV LA jack, bevel up smoother, and bevel up jointer and love them. If I could only have one (perish the thought), I'd pick the jack.

Dan

[Doug Shepard]

I've got both the LN low and std angle adjustable mouth blocks and think for face grain you'd probably want the std angle. Which one works better for a particular species, piece of wood, or grain orientation is usually based on my high tech test of taking a couple of passes with each to see which one is giving the best results. Unless you're working on small pieces of stock though, the comments about going with a bigger plane for face grain work (or even edges) is pretty much on target. I've also got your Stanley LA block plane. I think it CAN cut just as good as the LN's - the problem is just that there's so much slop in the adjustment mechanisms that you constantly have to fiddle with it to keep the same setting.

[Jim Becker]

I also like the low-angle format that I have. It's comfortable to use, especially for a somewhat non-neander like me.

[Todd Franks]

The concept of LA planes with high angle (HA) blades is what is meant when the LA plane is said to be more versatile. In other words, one can use a blade with a shallow bevel (LA blade) and it is great on end grain and soft woods like Cedar and the like. Put a blade with a steeper bevel (HA blade) and its effective cutting angle is as steep or steeper (depending on the bevel angle) than a regular bevel down plane.
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Ah, makes sense now. Thanks for clearing that up. A low angle block plane with an extra blade might be the way to go.

Thanks to everyone for input on the LA smoother. I do have a few larger bench planes, some older #4,5,& 7 Stanleys that I picked up off of ebay. I've had some success with them however I think I need to give them a thorough tuning and get some thicker aftermarket blades. I guess I meant to say that I would be using the block plane on "edge" grain and not face grain if that makes sense. When using larger planes on the edges of boards to remove jointer scallop marks and saw marks, they seemed a little too large and unwieldy. My thought was that the smaller size of block plane might feel more comfortable on a narrow 3/4" edge.

Since I'm only going to buy one plane for now and given that I already have 3 Stanley bench planes, I'm still leaning towards getting a good quality block plane. Thanks for your input, I have so much to learn about hand planes.

-Todd
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[Jimmy Walker]

Todd, having gone over the edge several years ago....
I could not do WW, IMHO, without my Stanley 60 1/2. I have about 8 different blocks and it resides in my pocket all the time.
So far with all the planes I've aquired (about 25+ at the moment) I haven't had to try a Hock blade yet. Gonna try one, one day, but not yet. As long as I can get those feathery thin wisps outta mine I'll keep right on with the stock blades.
BTW, good writings in FWW Dec 05 about purchasing used handtools.

Jimmy

[Mark Stutz]

Todd,
For youe "edge" grain work, I think you'll be fine witha block plane. I have an old Stanley 60 1/2, and a new Record, along with a LN 102. I really didn't know what a block plane could do until getting the 102. If your only experience is with old or new Stanleys, then either a LN or LV (whichever fits your hand, which is why I have LN...LV doesn't come to the show here ) will be a revelation. Once youe have one of these you'll be better able to det the new Stanley to work. I spent a lot of time with the Record, and now its one of my favorites. Good luck. It's going to take a lot of determination to just walk away with one!