Light Timer Wiring

[George Bregar]

Hey All: Been away for a while, caught the "old arn" bug, started a business, had a house fire, hip replacement gone wrong. Fun stuff like that. I bought a home and as luck would have it, it came with a 26'x38' garage just perfect to convert to a woodshop!

I'm redoing all the electrical, and I want to verify how to wire this light switch timer. It controlled two external external lights on the same circuit. I left the wiring on the block as a reference thinking that would help, but it doesn't. I think power comes in to the two top right lugs (A&B), that have the black and white wired to it, to power the clock. The hot is jumpered over to the first switched circuit (Common 1) and goes out to the load from the N.O. lug(normally open) when the switch contacts are closed. Right?

Here is the pic of the block and the wiring diagram that came with it:
20180228_162434.jpg

Please confirm or correct!

Thanks,

George

[John Lanciani]

Hi George, you are correct with your assumptions.

[George Bregar]

Thanks John...just wanted to be sure.

George

[Arthur Fleming]

I am always loath to give online opinions on wiring, due to the difficulty of knowing all the factors. The neutral (white) wire going to the lights is USUALLY also connected to the white wire feeding the clock. You are bringing in 120 volts to the clock, jumping the hot wire to feed one side of a contact/switch, and USUALLY the white wire going to the lights is under the same screw as the white wire feeding the clock motor. Now, some time clocks screw clamps are only rated for a single wire, not supposed to put two wires under the clamp (But it is seen often), to be code legal under these conditions you would use wirenuts and make splices so that each clamp only has one wire under it. I bring this up because in your photo the wire jumping power over to the contact appears to be a larger gauge than the one feeding the clock motor. This sometimes creates a loose wire condition under the clamp because the clamp bottoms out on the larger wire, and sometimes doesn’t squeeze the smaller wire equally. Hope this helps.

[George Bregar]

Her Arthur, I will pigtail both the hot and neutral to eliminate two wires under any screws. It will all be #12 solid so no issues. I just really wanted to know what each lug was for so I could from there.

Thanks for your response.

George