Need to re-saw one 7 1/2" x 38" board. My Delta only does 6". Live in Metro DC area.

[Don Morris]

I have all the highly figured cherry for a bedside chest; but want to use one particular board for the top. The board is 7 1/2" W X 38" L X 11/16". Re-sawing it once would give me two pieces that joined, plus a 2" border of a contrasting wood (African Rosewood) would complete the dimensions required for the top. I've lived with my Delta 14" Band Saw for years and rarely do re-sawing. The few times I have, it came out reasonably well, but you can't get silk from a sows ear. Two 6" pieces joined won't cut it. The border would have to be disproportionately wide. I'm hoping there's a creeker out there in the Metro DC area who has a Band Saw with greater cutting capacity than a Delta 14", and will take sympathy on another creeker in a bind. The board comes with Beer or Wine of course.

[Jim Becker]

Don, if you can't find someone local to help, you can do a partial resaw at the table saw from both sides (work up the blade in height over multiple passes on both edges and absolutely use feather boards) and then complete the cut with a hand saw. Your planer can clean things up for you.

[Jeff Bartley]

Don, I'm sure there's someone in the DC area that can do that but if not and you feel like driving an hour and a half west I'd be glad to do it.
PM me if you want to go that route.
Jeff

[Grant Wilkinson]

In my climate, I would not use boards that wide. They would cup for sure. You want to consider ripping the 7 1/2" in half, then you can resaw the narrower pieces.

[Michael Pyron]

considering guitar sets are routinely resawn at 8" wide (and often wider according to the billet they came from) there should be NO worry about cupping on a board that is properly seasoned...and as long as any cupping occurs after final prepping (e.g. surfacing to equal thickness) there should be no issues as I would think laminating this material to a substrate is what is going to happen

[Matthew Hills]

Will the resawn boards be used in a frame and panel? (I'm assuming so, as 11/16" isn't very thick starting material)

If nobody local steps up, I'd recommend the partial cuts on the table saw as well. (when I've done this before, I completed the cut with hand saw). The downside of this is you will lose more material with the wider kerf, beyond what is lost in final milling after the resaw.
You might be able to save a bit of this by using a 7.25" circular saw blade for the guide slots and then finishing by hand... but still losing 3/64 over a bandsaw blade...

Matt

[David J Blackburn]

Don - I PM’d you. I’m in Bethesda. Not a big window due to work travel, but if you can swing by tomorrow during the day, I can help.

[Jim Becker]

In my climate, I would not use boards that wide. They would cup for sure. You want to consider ripping the 7 1/2" in half, then you can resaw the narrower pieces.

I routinely use wide boards...like 12-13" wide...and have never had issues with that...ripping something nice would also compromise the appearance.

[Don Morris]

Thanks everyone, for their input and esp. the local creekers who volunteered their wider cutting band saws. Creekers rock! Decided to use Jim Becker's suggestion and do a partial resaw on the TS followed by finishing with a handsaw. Something I've done before, just not that wide a board. The handsaw work should be easily performed with my Japanese 9 1/2 Ryoba. I just got through installing a tall fence on my Grizzly 1023SL's ShopFox fence to stabilize the board. I've got several feather boards lined up and a thin kerf blade cleaned and ready to go. I've rarely used this blade, but since I'm going to use multiple passes, it shouldn't matter and will leave me with the most stock with which to correct the dimensions on my planer. After a test run on a "non essential" Cedar board, tomorrow, I should be ready to go. I think...and yes I went to church today.