Routing Questtion

[Mark Singer]

Mark

The glass is ruined anyway - right? If I were you I would do a controlled break on the glass (lots of padding, eye protection , big hammer) then remove what is left of the glass from the groove between the rebate and the moulding.

This will give you more room to work whatever method you use. If you have to rout them out I would rout up to about 1/4" short of each brad location then remove the remaining waste with a chisel until you have the brad exposed and can pull it with pliers.

Whichever way you go good luck.

Ian,
The glass is laminated-inner layer safety glass.....there is a .060 vinyl plastic sheet in the center of 2 pieces of glass....it will be very , very difficult to remove....

[Mark Singer]

Dave,
I have made many doors this way...you are taking a bit of a chance....I have a friend, Richard Evans in Laguna Canyon that has hundreds of doors and uses the same technique. The crack is very rare and unusual....The gluing of the stop gives an almost invisible joint....On some doors I used my pin nailer which is 23ga and thiner than the brads....I will have to check....I think this one has brads.

[Dave Richards]

Mark, I wasn't questioning your decision to use nails. Just wondering what to do. I know the cracks in the glass are rare and I was also thinking about the glued stop having an almost invisible joint.

[Ian Barley]

Ian,
The glass is laminated-inner layer safety glass.....there is a .060 vinyl plastic sheet in the center of 2 pieces of glass....it will be very , very difficult to remove....

Ah well - it seemed like a good idea at the time. Over here the standard is to use toughened rather than laminated.

[tod evans]

might be a good time to spring for that insert cutter you`ve been eyeing tod

[Mark Singer]

might be a good time to spring for that insert cutter you`ve been eyeing tod

Insert cutter ,HUH?

[Kent Parker]

Mark,

I don't know the size of your stops but would it be possible to cut off some of the wood with a circular saw with a guide rail to minimize the amount of wood the router bit has to cut through? Then follow up with the router to "fine tune" the cut ?

Kent

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

I don't know the size of your stops but would it be possible to cut off some of the wood with a circular saw with a guide rail to minimize the amount of wood the router bit has to cut through? Then follow up with the router to "fine tune" the cut ?

Kent

That is a darn good idea! I have the Festool Plunge saw and an old blade...I could set it just above the glass and saw the line out...

[Dev Emch]

The brads are soft and the bit is carbide. So whats the problem? Well, the botton edges are ground very sharp. Much sharper than a carbide bit used to cut metal. My concern is not that the bit could not get through the brad but that I may be flaking off chunks of carbide on my botton cutting edges. The side edges are less prone to damage here. Slow enough and gentle enough, you could use almost any type of router bit or end mill. But in time, you will get some damage. I have a CMT that I use only for cutting holes in hardwood floors. The bit has hit more than its share of flooring nails. It still works but I would not use my good fine woodworking bits for this!

Now the festool saw idea sounds splendid. And the blade is carbide tipped and that plunge action is to die for. I vote on using the festool circular saw for this job!