Kickback is real ( and powerful)

[Nick Schepis]

kickback.JPG
This from a piece of 1X4 pine 8 inces long, from a benchtop table saw, right in the solar plexus. I'm convinced it could have achieved escape velocity with the proper launch angle. I will be MUCH more careful in the future.

[Ole Anderson]

Been there...

[Bryan Lisowski]

Ouch! So as not to have a future repeat, do you know why it happened?

[andy bessette]

Ouch! So as not to have a future repeat, do you know why it happened?

Not holding the workpiece down and against the fence.

[Nick Schepis]

In this particular instance, I was cutting a 3/8" deep groove (along the grain) in an 8" piece of 1X4.

The throat plate had apparently slightly settled so the corner of my piece got hung up on the lip before the cut was complete.

As I reached down to turn off the saw, I was not careful enough to keep the workpiece firmly in place until the blade underneath it fully stopped, and it caught and

hm1.jpg

Bang Zoom!

I will always check the throat plate clearance AND use a larger push block with greater control than the flimsy one I was using.

[Mel Fulks]

Ole, Glad you survived that!! But I must say it gives you some perspective.....the wound is so deep you could set up a
diarama in there!

[Andrew Hughes]

I've had several like the one Ole shows. Underpowered job site saws are the worst bog the saw down then it launches wood back.

[Lee Schierer]

In this particular instance, I was cutting a 3/8" deep groove (along the grain) in an 8" piece of 1X4.

The throat plate had apparently slightly settled so the corner of my piece got hung up on the lip before the cut was complete.

As I reached down to turn off the saw, I was not careful enough to keep the workpiece firmly in place until the blade underneath it fully stopped, and it caught and

hm1.jpg

Bang Zoom!

I will always check the throat plate clearance AND use a larger push block with greater control than the flimsy one I was using.

Any chance you can get a zero clearance insert for your TS?

Also when ripping you need to try to stand out of the firing line should a piece get caught and come back at you.

[James Pallas]

I've had a few kick backs over 55 years or so using table saws. Verticle and horizontal feather boards are your best friends. Keep them close at hand with the clamps you normally use. Very little time to set up for a lot of peace of mind. Of course machine set up is equally important. The only times I experienced kick backs was caused by lack of knowledge or pure a$$ laziness. the worst one was cutting a long mitre on white oak. The edge cut right thru a heavy leather belt and into me. 20,stitches later and kicking myself for acting stupid. Thank goodness for the belt and a chance to redeem myself and prevent more "accidents".
Jim

[Charlie Hinton]

Many years ago I had a kickback and got hit in the gut. It hit me hard and I felt fortunate to escape with a small cut and a significant bruise. Had to go to the library and find a book on tablesaws to figure out what had just happened.
I learned a lot about the correct way to operate a tablesaw from that experience.
Kickbacks can also drag your hand across the blade, so even when you think there's plenty of room between the blade and the fence it's a really good idea to use push blocks/sticks to push the wood through.
Glad you were not seriously injured.

[julian abram]

Ouch! On a positive note, it appears you still have all your fingers.

[lowell holmes]

I have push sticks that I made and use.

If you want to buy one, here is one link that will lead you to it. There are numerous other links as well, just google it.

http://www.rockler.com/search/go?asu...8d254239752594

[Tom Bender]

A foot switch may have saved you.

[Art Mann]

Push sticks make wicked projectiles too.

[Larry Frank]

For shorter pieces, I really like my Grrippers.