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Thread: Used Shellac for sealing over water based dye stain, but I think I used the wrong one

  1. #1
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    Used Shellac for sealing over water based dye stain, but I think I used the wrong one

    I screwed up and used clear shellac not sanding sealer (dewaxed shellac) to seal over water based GF dye satin prior to using GF water based poly for final couple of coats.

    Am I in trouble?

    If so what can I do to recover from my error?

    Thanks
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  2. #2
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    Which GF poly did you use? If it was EnduroVar you may be in trouble. If it was Enduro Clear Poly or High Perf. Poly it likely will be fine. I've put those over amber shellac (containing wax) many times w/o issue.

    The only recovery is to strip it off and start over, but I wouldn't unless it's something for a customer. Even then I'd make a test specimen first and do a tape test to see if there really was a bond problem.

    John

  3. #3
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    GF High Performance Poly is what I am planning to use.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
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    For future, if you do this and catch yourself at the shellac step, you can spray a coat over the waxy shellac with de-waxed to adjust before proceeding with next steps.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Thanks for that tip Jim. The only thing is I do not really have a place to spray.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    Thanks for that tip Jim. The only thing is I do not really have a place to spray.
    Although spraying would be best, the lack of spray gear would not stop me from brushing a coat of Seal Coat over the non-de-waxed shellac. I use Seal Coat as a barrier coat between all sorts of things and as a very quick precautionary step I would not hesitate to apply it in your case. It will mostly burn in and wax may merge with the Seal Caot to some degree. However, I would sleep better having taken the step.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    Thanks for that tip Jim. The only thing is I do not really have a place to spray.
    I mentioned spray because that's the most efficient way to get a thin barrier coat, but as Glenn mentions, you can also brush it out. Do remember that brushing shellac is "different" than brushing other finishes because of how fast it flashes off.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    GF High Performance Poly is what I am planning to use.
    Your first post suggested to me anyway that you had already applied the HP Poly; seems Jim understood you had not. He's absolutely right, just spray, wipe, or brush a coat of Sealcoat over the waxy shellac and then you'll be good to go. Personally, I'd use rattle can; it's not really an issue with just a little ventilation.

    John

  9. #9
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    I have not yet applied the poly. Guess I will get some dewaxed and give it ago.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  10. #10
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    I actually thought he did already apply the polyurethane...hence, my "for future" preface to the statement. That said...I'm glad that wasn't the case as getting some de-waxed on before the next steps can be assured.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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