And that's exactly where I'd like to be, thanks for the feedback. I hate/forget changing blades.Originally Posted by Jason Lester
Member
And that's exactly where I'd like to be, thanks for the feedback. I hate/forget changing blades.
Contributor
I find Forest blades to be over, as in over rated, and over priced. Never seen a commercial shop running one. Before plunking a Ben Franklin, plus some friends for a WWII, check out the Delta 7657 from Cripe Distributing for around $20 plus shipping. Amazing blade for the price. Own several, along with two WWII's. The WWII's reside in their boxes, with one having never been on the saw.
Contributor
I like Forrest blades they are not your best bang for the buck. For fine wood working that's as good as it gets.
This is the blade on my vintage Davis and Wells tablesaw is a great ripper and cross cut wood only! 12 inch
Aj
Member
I really like the Dimar blades that I have. 50 tooth combination (4atb with flat raker) and a 24 tooth full kerf rip. FS tool also makes great blades. These two are Canadian companies so not sure how available in the states. Lee valley sells the Dimar. There are tons of good blades to choose from, but a good sharpening service is just as or even more important in my experience, good luck, Mike.
Contributor
I usually run a Freud "Thin Kerf, Combination Blade" on my TS. I do have a good rip blade that I put on for certain heavy ripping, but find that for most day-to-day work having the combo blade on does a good job. Keeping it clean and sharp are the 2 requirements to having it work well.
Looks like we scared Nick away. These conversations have way of doing that. One of the values of the forum is that folks share their experiences. Folks in the "all purpose" camp wonder why you would ever change blades, others of us use specific blades for specific purposes.
As usual "it depends". In this case it depends on what you use a tablesaw for. In a lot of shops a tablesaw just rips and crosscuts. Others use it for a wide array of joinery. Your needs and satisfaction level with a given blade or blades will vary with what you use the tools for.
Fortunately once you get to the $100 area for a 10" blade, there are many high quality cutters; it's hard to go wrong. In the area of combo blades, my Freud's and Amana's ran cleaner than my Forrest WWII (which I eventually gave away).
Take comfort in the fact that this is hardly the last blade you will buy and that your own use and experience will direct you to your own favorites. I have been hooked on Carbide Processors Cermet II tipped blades for the last several years. The cutting life is like A2 steel versus PM-V11 for hand tools.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
For a combination blade, the Freud Premier Fusion (P410) is an excellent blade. By far the best combination blade I've ever used. Great finish, good cutting speed. The down side is that because of the high angle grind, it does not do well with say, a hidden brad in a piece of wood
Member
The term “High-End” has a very broad interpretation. Most of the brands mentioned here are quite capable. But there is a world of “high end” blades, that no one has mentioned yet.
Member
I only use a Woodworker II in my 10" Jet contactors saw and I have for 10-15 years. I have never had any issues with it. Why would I use anything else.
Contributor
Maybe I'm missing something, but I've never used a Forrest.
I really like CMT blades.
Member
Wanna enlighten us on those ‘high end’ blades?
Moderator
I use Freud Glue line ripping blades (30T) these day for everything.
YMMV, but i haven't figured out the need for anything cleaner on the cross cuts.
Contributor
How about a high end pedestal tablesaw blade
Aj
[OP]
Member
Hi Everyone,
Thank you much for all of the detailed replies. I have been looking up some of those other less popular brands I have not heard of yet. As I mentioned I am new to woodworking and just in the process of setting up my first shop. You did not scare me away no worries!
I talked with a local wood working store and they recommended the Freud Premier Fusion (P410) as well as they think Forrest is over priced for what it is and can get the Freud cheaper and has the same quality.
I think I will go with the Freud.
They recommended a Diablo for cross-cut miter saw blade. I am looking for a good 10" miter saw blade around 50-60$. Any thoughts on these?
Member
The Freud fusion is an excellent blade. I am of the opinion that it's a good idea to have a dedicated rip blade for use either with thick stock, or simply when you have a lot of ripping to do. A 2 HP contractor saw with a rip blade will feel as if it has more power than a 3 HP cabinet saw with a combo blade.
If you buy good blades, much of what you pay for is enough carbide to resharpen them multiple times, so plan on it. You will need another blade to use while your good one is out for sharpening. If you buy a good combo blade and a rip blade, a third blade that is either crosscut or combo will make sure you can send any blade out for sharpening without loss of capability. If your current miter saw takes a 10" blade and you are thinking of someday upgrading to a larger saw, note that a high quality blade for this miter saw can also be used for crosscutting on the tablesaw.
If you are looking for deals on sawblades, you can check out Cripe distributing on the bay. The $20 Delta blade mentioned above can be found there. While it definitely is not as smooth cutting as the P410, it's not bad and makes a fine backup. That's the argument for lesser blades. But top quality blades are new every time they are sharpened, so as well as the better cut you should compare their prices as spread over much longer lifetimes. They can wind up cheaper than cheap blades.
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