What type drill bit "head" is this?

[Jerry Olexa]

As part of a recent old tool purchase, I acquired a sizable bunch of these drill bits (see pics).
All is normal except for the part at the top of the shank that fits into a brace, motor unit or a specialized tool?
I cannot identify. Probably for a special use tool.Do any of you recognize this portion/fitting at top of shank or the tool for which it might be intended? thanks for your help...
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[CPeter James]

Those are Morse taper shank drill bits. Usually used in lathes and milling machines.
CPeter

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Bigger drill presses commonly use them too. How many did you get, any makers marks?

[Bruce Page]

Morse taper. Looks like a #1 or #2 but hard to say not knowing the drill size.

[Jerry Olexa]

This one says MORSE 31, HS USA 64 ....I'll check others altho they need to be cleaned and total over 60 bits

[Jerry Olexa]

They are badly rusted..Soaking in vinegar overnight....Tomorrow, wire wheel and/or steel wool w gloves.
Found the Morse taper bits on Google, amazon, etc .Getting some information..
Thanks for your help, input.

[Bruce Page]

This one says MORSE 31, HS USA 64 ....I'll check others altho they need to be cleaned and total over 60 bits

Morse #3 is almost 1 inch (.984) in diameter at the big end of the taper. There's no such thing as Morse 31, at least as a size designation. Morse #7 is the largest AFAIK.

[Jerry Bruette]

My guess is that it's a 31/64 drill bit, but I have no idea which Morse taper size.

[Bill Dufour]

Morse is also a respected drill bit maker so I agree that is probably a HSS bit made by the Morse company. Many drillpresses use a Morse taper socket on the quill. either you insert a taper shank drill direct or you have a Morse taper arbor to hold a drill chuck. Note the tang on the end is not a drive feature it is just to help remove the tape from the socket with a wedge.
Most wood lathes use a Morse taper on the tailstock.
Bill D

[John K Jordan]

I use taper shank bits on the wood and metal lathe when I have the right size. (I once bought a bunch surplus.) The flat on the end can prevent the bit from turning if used in a MT socket made for it. (My lathes are not made for this, perhaps most are this way.)

Here are a few samples, #2MT and #1MT with an adapter to use the smaller ones in a #2MT socket.

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I like them on the lathe since the Jacob's chuck is eliminated. The extension from the tailstock is less with less chance of flexing or accumulated precision errors.

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JKJ

[Jerry Olexa]

Cleaned a few this morning ( see pics) and its a messy job.
Took the marking off a few randomly and here they are:

ALL in this group are CLE-Forge:

17/64 HS USA
23/64 hs 335480
z 09053
27/64
15/32
27x
15/32
x518
and couple odd ones (deburring, small drill bit etc)

Not sure what I have but I've learned the use of these Morse taper bits and the history....I'm questioning my use of time but restoring is generally fun..
Most of the group still soaking in vinegar....Maybe I'll have a better perspective tomorrow....Thanks for your help/advice.


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[Steve Rozmiarek]

Good find Jerry. If you have some you want sharpened, Fastenal did a good job on a bunch for me.

[Bill Dufour]

Many folks do not realize there is a correct orientation to insert a taper drill into the socket. Set it so the tang is 90 degrees to the slot. Other wise removal may be hard.
A lathe tailstock often will not have slot so there I would insert it so the tang is horizontal.
I have one drill where the tang is too short for good ejection in the tailstock so I taped on a short slug of metal to help it eject when the quill is retracted. I also have ground the tang shorter on a few drills so they seat all the way.
Bill D.

[Peter Christensen]

I would not use most of those bit because of the corrosion pits on the taper. They won't hold properly and if they spin will wreck the shaft to quill they are in.

[John K Jordan]

Many folks do not realize there is a correct orientation to insert a taper drill into the socket. Set it so the tang is 90 degrees to the slot. Other wise removal may be hard.

I never heard of that. The only MT things I have with slots are adapters to go between #1, #2, and #3MT and the bits have to be firmly seated into the slot. The adapters do have an access slot on the side for easy removal with a tapered pin or a screw driver.

JKJ