Combo jointer / planer question

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks for the tip Dan.


Last night, looking at at the electrical, the 12” cord dangling out of the switch is about useless for a U.S. install in a residential setting. But the manuals say that opening the switch boxes will void the warranty, so no way to easily swap the cord itself without risking warranty issues. As I didn’t want to deal with an extension cord connection, I decided to mount a junction box and run my own longer cord to it. Pictures should be self explanatory. Opened motor cover door and verified nothing behind this area so I used self tap screws to mount it. As FYI, I used electrical tape over the wire nuts as extra security since it is all stranded wire. Just need to pick up a blank cover this weekend to put over the box.

At at this point, it is basically ready to use. I cleaned tables and coated with some T9 Boeshield. Need to clean them down and maybe paste wax them one day but for now the T9 and my dehumidifier garage should keep me ok.

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[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, the 20A rating was for Canada where the machine was limited to use on a 20 ampere circuit capable of delivering 5,000 Amperes short circuit current or less.

In the USA you could use a 30 ampere circuit if you wanted.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. I I don't have an electrical code for your area however 12 AWG flexible cord would be rated at 25 or 30 amperes, depending upon the insulation rating, just perfect for the machine, whether it's on a 20 or 30 ampere circuit.

[Julie Moriarty]

A hint for you two Floridians:

The mobility kit looks nice and shiny, now, but those stop collars are not stainless. Mine rusted, and that bothers my neurotic brain Spray some sort of rust preventative on them to keep them looking sharp.

We're on a canal. I learned very quickly you can't leave anything unprotected here. In Chicago, I hardly gave rust a thought. Here, it's ever pervasive. I bought some Felder Metal Glanz and Super Gleit, to take care of the new baby.

[Julie Moriarty]

Last night, looking at at the electrical, the 12” cord dangling out of the switch is about useless for a U.S. install in a residential setting. But the manuals say that opening the switch boxes will void the warranty...

They give you 12" of cord and tell you you can't replace it with a longer cord without voiding the warranty? I guess they expect you to put a cord end on their 12" tail and use an extension cord from there. Why would they void the warranty for doing it right?

[Jim Becker]

Last night, looking at at the electrical, the 12” cord dangling out of the switch is about useless for a U.S. install in a residential setting.

Well, it would have been perfect for me because I typically install pig-tails like that on machines with a twist lock so I can completely remove the cord if I want or need to move the machine around and to provide a very positive disconnect without having to "get to " the actual outlet which sometimes can be in a less convenient place in my shop. Yes, this costs me a little more because of the extra termination gear, but over time, it's been quite useful as my shop has evolved. I also make the "extension" cord to exact length for the situation and it's not overly expensive if I need a different length cord if the machine has to move.

[Greg Parrish]

Understood. I figured it was tied to their industrial background with Felder machines where they are thinking it gets forklifted into position, wiring run right to the machine and it never moves. For me, I prefer to have a 15’ (ish) cord on each machine so I can position without worry of moving the reception each time. Let’s me roll a machine out and use in different spots if needed too. Similar to your idea Jim but I make the disconnect at the receptical

Rod, on mine, I’m running 12/3 stranded wire heavy gauge contractor style extension cord. Just cut it to length and terminate as needed. I have a ton of them I’ve been cutting down for this and custom length extension cords over the past few years. Sometimes I take the factory ends, like from this particular cord, and terminate a new 115v end on it because it had a triple female plug molded in on the other end. With 12” of wire it makes a great multi plug when needed.

On a totally separate note, I happened upon a clearance priced deal at the Borg today. A cordless makita tracksaw kit with saw, two batteries, twin charger and sustainer style storage boxes for 50% off. Ordered some track from amazon and look forward to finally joining the track saw club. Realize it isn’t a festool but it costs way, way less too. The reviews seem pretty favorable.

[Julie Moriarty]

the warranty

I was just going through the warranty docs from the Felder website. All I could find was

1.1. Definition of Warranty
• A warranty enters into effect automatically, because it is prescribed by statute and involves strict liability under contracts undertaken for compensation (sales contract, contract for work and services, ...) on the part of the seller or manufacturer for the fact that the goods or services are without defect at the time of delivery. The warranty covers all parts (Exceptions cf. 1.3.) as well as the costs of work, shipment and travel. Liability for any consequential damages is excluded.

2.3. Private end consumers outside the EU
• Statutory warranty in accordance with regional specifications.

3.2. HAMMER
Only the statutory warranty provisions apply

Pretty vague. Was the warranty that came with you JP more specific?

[Brian Holcombe]

Greg, those wire clamps are meant for romex. Not machine cords. The type for cords cinches down differently;



Also, electrical boxes specifically made for equipment available and are inexpensive. They are made to be a sealed enclosure where dust and fluids cannot enter.

A jobber box is really not the right thing for what you’re doing in my opinion.

[Jim Becker]

Greg, the primary reason I like the pigtails with custom length cords (which could be the same length for multiple machines as in your scenario and even just one for multiple electrically compatible machines) is that I don't have to actually deal with the cord when moving the machine. It doesn't get in the way; or get knocked onto the floor in mid-move, etc. Both methods are absolutely valid!

[Greg Parrish]

Understood. I used what I had available. I’ll look to see if I can find the other box and clamp type but honestly in my shop there is very little chance of liquid getting into the box. And the remaining openings are so small not much dust getting in either. But I understand your point about what is technically correct. Are these boxes and clamps avail at local hardware? Have never looked for them.

[Brian Holcombe]

Greg, mainly I use McMaster Carr for these types of things. They have their catalog organized well enough that it is very easy to find what you need. They also provide technical drawings which are handy.

[Dan Friedrichs]

But the manuals say that opening the switch boxes will void the warranty,

It may say that, but I don't think it's true:
https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-...gs-are-illegal

[Julie Moriarty]

Understood. I used what I had available. I’ll look to see if I can find the other box and clamp type but honestly in my shop there is very little chance of liquid getting into the box. And the remaining openings are so small not much dust getting in either. But I understand your point about what is technically correct. Are these boxes and clamps avail at local hardware? Have never looked for them.

Years ago I installed a junction box on the underside of one of the table extensions on my table saw. In that box are two switches, one for the TS and one for the router that's mounted in a table wing. On the back of that box is another box with a duplex receptacle, half is fed from each switch. I ran an extension cord out of there using a take-all connector like the one you used. No problems.

While the type of cord grip shown above is the Cadillac of cord grips, it isn't necessary for a home workshop. The only time we were required to use grommeted, compression-type cord grips is when the conditions were wet or oily.

[Greg Parrish]

Anyone know the scoop on the size of the port on the Hammer? I went to the trouble to track down 5” hose and a 6” to 5” reducer for my duct work. That said, the 5” hose is too big for the machine. 4” is too small.

Is is this a metric port or something? Do I need some sort of 5” to metric adapter at the machine? Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

It's most likely 120mm...there are lots of threads about adapting. I use a rubber Fernco sewer connector on mine. It slips OVER the port on the machine and the 5" hose slips OVER the other side of the rubber connector and uses a hose clamp to keep it together.