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Thread: Circular saw preferences

  1. #46
    If there is wisdom in the crowd, realize that most people with space issues opt for a track saw not a panel saw. I infer from this that it is for many, more versatile and accurate than a panel saw. I find that there is rarely any need for me (hobbyist) to bring a 4x8 sheet into the shop. Saw horses and a track saw allow me to break things down outside. It's cleaner and quick enough to do on all but the snowiest days.

    The wallspace that a panel saw would require in the shop, on the other hand, is at a premium for me. I would not want to sacrifice the storage of clamps and may hand tools for something that I'd need for only the start of a project.

  2. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Foster View Post
    Peter, that probably is my solution.
    Although those panel saws, even the home made are pretty neat, It's probably overkill.
    I'm contemplating a rolling plywood cart.
    Maybe one side for storage and one side for cutting vertically, as you suggest.

    Do you have a track that you recommend for 8' cuts?
    Or choke it down and buy a track saw and track kit?

    Rich, we have 3" of snow today.
    Carrying horses and stuff to the lumber yard and cutting there doesn't seem a lot better than dragging my cutting rack outside at home.
    I appreciate the suggestion.

    But, would love to see the picture in case I'm misunderstanding.
    It's 22F with 20mph winds so outside anything especially with sheet goods wouldn't happen here either and winter is only just getting its footing.

    If the cart is to be moveable I would consider making it tilt so you can work inside against the wall and outside weather permitting with it horizontal. You'd also be able to slide the sheet goods onto it from your vehicle. like the ones people make for their table saws.

    I have a cheap Grizzly track saw and because the tracks are 55" long you need to use the little connection bars to to join two tracks. They wouldn't support a saw much less themselves if placed on a sheet to cut the long dimension in a vertical rack. So a Makita or Dewalt would be the minimum if you can't afford Germany's finest.

    Something to consider if cutting the long way in a vertical rack is the kerf closing as you cut. You might want to have some wedges to stick in the sheet as you cut so it doesn't pinch the saw blade.

  3. #48
    Peter, thanks for the tips, again.
    I like the idea of a tilting rack.
    Have to put my Redneck Engineering hat on.

    Dumb question (or several)
    What is Germany's finest?

    Also, if I clamp the tracks to make a horizontal cut won't they interfere with the saw?
    It looked like the saw rides on the track rather than beside it.


    Also, do I need a specific "track" saw or can I use a circular saw?

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Foster View Post

    Dumb question (or several)
    What is Germany's finest?

    Also, if I clamp the tracks to make a horizontal cut won't they interfere with the saw?
    It looked like the saw rides on the track rather than beside it.


    Also, do I need a specific "track" saw or can I use a circular saw?
    Germany's finest might have been referring to Festool, however, Germany's true finest in track saws are from Mafell but that is a price point above Festool. Bosch also makes a slightly watered down licensed version of the Mafell 55 series saw at a similar price point to Festool. If you aren't already in the Festool ecosystem the Bosch could be a string contender since the Mafell track system is superior to all the other track on the market.

    All the tracks for tracksaws are designed to be clamped from underneath as to not interfere with the movement of the saw along the rail. They do ride on the track.

    You need a tracksaw to run on tracksaw rails, there is some interchangeability between tracks and saws but you need to investigate that for each combo.

    There are certainly circular saw/guide systems that work well for some people but in the end none of them are as idiot proof as the good tracksaws. There are much cheaper tracksaws like Wen and Grizzly that some people have good luck with. My personal experience is limited to Makita, Dewalt, Festool and Mafell.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Foster View Post

    Also, if I clamp the tracks to make a horizontal cut won't they interfere with the saw?
    It looked like the saw rides on the track rather than beside it.
    Most often, clamping the track uses a clamp that inserts into the tee-slot on the bottom of the track at the edge of the material. Therefore, it doesn't interfere with the saw at all. Do note that since the saw doesn't "attache" to the track, making cuts with the material oriented so it's not horizontal means having to be very careful with holding the saw firmly on the track so it doesn't tilt even slightly or disengage.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #51
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    Rich, we have 3" of snow today.
    Carrying horses and stuff to the lumber yard and cutting there doesn't seem a lot better than dragging my cutting rack outside at home.
    I appreciate the suggestion.

    But, would love to see the picture in case I'm misunderstanding.
    Larry, we have a dusting (an inch or so) of snow today also. I'd only cut down a panel for transport on a day like this (or what you have) if it were a very desperate situation.

    That being said - -don't underestimate the ability for Festool tools to operate nearly dust free..you can (and I have - more than a few times) set up a cutting table in my living room and cut down Luan underlayment &/or plywood.
    My cordless Makita is pretty good, but, my Festool is unbelievable - - and I use a Ridgid shop vac, not one of the excellent Festool or equivalent vacs.

    I'm not suggesting you can stress your marriage or anything,,,,but,,,Festool DC is out of this world.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ...clamping the track uses a clamp that inserts into the tee-slot on the bottom of the track...
    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    ...All the tracks for tracksaws are designed to be clamped from underneath...
    Note: In all the years I've used the Festool track saw, only once did I need to clamp the track; that was when I used it vertically, instead of the normal horizontal mode.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  8. #53
    Thanks for all the clarifications.
    Heading out for a bit and will (probably) ask more questions later

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Note: In all the years I've used the Festool track saw, only once did I need to clamp the track; that was when I used it vertically, instead of the normal horizontal mode.
    A very germane point. Jim and I were answering the question ask but at least I didn't think to answer the question he might not have known to ask. I rarely (read as I don't remember ever) clamping the tracks for sheet goods cuts but often do for solid wood rips since if they are rough cut they don't offer the same level of friction on the strip that the smooth finish of sheet goods does. That said if he plans to cut at any angle instead of the preferred flat then he would likely need to clamp for the cuts even on sheet goods.

    As an aside I do almost all my sheet goods cuts on top of a 2" piece of rigid insulation laying on the floor.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    ...I do almost all my sheet goods cuts on top of a 2" piece of rigid insulation laying on the floor.
    When breaking down sheet goods I place a few 4/4-square strips of cheap wood between my 48" x 96" bench top and the workpiece. When trimming or straightening the edge of lumber I simply lay it just off the edge of my bench.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Note: In all the years I've used the Festool track saw, only once did I need to clamp the track; that was when I used it vertically, instead of the normal horizontal mode.
    I've rarely used the clamps myself. They did come in handy a few times when I used the track to cut down something on an existing cabinet in a awkward position or where I was working in cramped quarters and was worried about bumping things off the line while "reaching" too far for my arms. But in general, the track does stay put on most material surfaces. I was just providing an answer to the OP's question about clamps interfering with the saw.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #57
    Because my momma taught me you can never say thank you too much, I'm saying thank you all again as I work through this.

    Was stumbling through Home Depot's site and found something called EZSmart track system which looks kind of interesting because you can use it with most saws.
    It's kind of expensive ($349 for 118" track) but I have plenty of saws so I wouldn't have that cost.

    Your thoughts are welcome or if you have another direction, it would be welcome.

    While checking YouTube I saw they have an EZSmart edge guide which looks like a sturdier, higher quality Kreg Rip Cut.
    The video I watched showed them ripping a sheet of plywood while it was sitting vertical.

    Since I already own the Kreg one, I wonder if I've had the solution all the time.
    And that method might help with my problem of deviating off at the end of that long cut.
    Gravity would help keep the edge guide in place.

    Since I have the Rip Cut and clamping guides already.
    Should I consider investing in more stuff?

  13. #58

    Cool

    Well, I slept on it overnight, watched about 457 YouTube videos, reread this thread several more times and checked out Festool and am at about 98% on a decision.

    Everyone's input was very helpful and appreciated.

    I realized that I knew nothing about tracksaws or their capabilities.
    Now I know a little more and feel that I can use them vertically which eliminates trying to figure out how to make a panel saw.

    I think I'm going with the EZSmart 118" track system.
    I haven't found any bad reviews and it seems like a good system.

    One advantage to me is that it works with almost any saw.
    I just realized that I have 4 different working circular saws.

    That led me away from a system that required me to get another saw.

    From being on this forum, Festool seemed like a great product but it's price point put it a little out of my reach.
    The EZSmart isn't cheap at $349 either and is near my upper limit.

    This is a really great forum filled with generous, helpful people and I appreciate the willingness and patience to help someone like me.
    Thank you.

  14. #59
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    The Eureka Zone stuff is usually high quality and has a group of highly devoted followers though you see much less about their stuff since tracksaws became ubiquitous in the US. I think the main three differences between what you are looking at are the plunge action, better dust control and slightly lighter weight and clunkiness. If the price is the primary motivator for your choice and you aren't in a huge hurry you might want to watch the prices of the Makita and Dewalt over the next few weeks. In any event, I hope you find a system that works well for you given your limited space.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #60
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    My Festool TS55 track saw kit was purchased off c/l for $350.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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