Mitered frame and panel table top question

[Patrick Walsh]

I’m thinking something like this but pegged maybe for the underside and not through so you don’t see it.

Personally I wouldn’t mind seeing the peg.

https://i2.wp.com/www.daedtoolworks....690-769938.jpg

Or even better. Clearly you would have to haunch both joints to accept a panel.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZZYjlsT-Ho

[Brian Holcombe]

If they’re small miters you really don’t have to worry much, especially in rift sawn material. If they’re wide, they will gap in most places with a range of humidity.

The cutoff point for me would be about 2.5”, beyond that I would prefer a joint that hides the movement.

Ive seen that type of wide miter table after it travels to the US and sits in a place with a heater running, they stand no chance.

The one Wilbur shows seems to be very thoughtfully constructed and has probably lived in a similar humidity range after it was made. Great article, and I’ve attended Wilbur’s speech on the subject, which I found quite informative.

[Mike Cutler]

In 1993 I made three doors like that for our upstairs bathroom. Mitered corner, frame in panel, construction. Ten of the twelve joints are just as tight as they were when I made them. The two that failed were both on the hinge side of an 80" door. A door which I wanted to divide in half, but was over ruled by the "client".
I think I got lucky personally and that it's only because they are in a bathroom, that they made it. The swings in humidity are much less than other parts of the house.

It's impressive for sure that the table lasted that long period, let alone with that type of top, but I would have to believe that the wood was very carefully selected. The ends were sealed with whatever they had back then, and whomever made it was a heckuva craftsman.

I think that the math would suggest to construct a different type of top.