Tapered leg banding question

[Phil Mueller]

When doing banding around a tapered leg, does the banding follow the taper, or does the banding area get squared off? Here’s a crude drawing.

640048A7-E0B2-41A0-A9C2-934432923EAF.jpg

I can’t quite tell from this photo (example on the left)...

C47CAEB8-77A0-4EA0-833D-6AA0F838B96D.jpeg

Thanks!

[Dennis Tebo]

Phil,

I think the banding should flow with the taper. Now I haven't done one yet, but I would think you would want to put the banding in parallel with the original face to make your corners miters 'square', then come back and sand the banding flush with the taper. I'll have to try this once before the real deal.

The leg on the left probably has two tapers to it, if it's like the federal table I have plans for, with the transition between them starting at the bottom of the banding.

Dennis

[Phil Mueller]

That’s where I’m at as well. First time. And yes, I do plan on a second taper below the banding. I’m also trying to think through how to cut the two tapers and leave a 3/8” squared off section. I’m just not sure there is enough thickness in the banding to glue it in square and plane it down to the upper taper (?). This little detail has me a bit baffled. Interested in any and all suggestions on how these federal leg bandings are done. And yes, I’ve scoured the internet and youtube.

[Mel Fulks]

Yes, stays parallel with floor. Those pic examples are real odd balls.

[Van Huskey]

Yes, stays parallel with floor. Those pic examples are real odd balls.

Agreed 100%. Banding at an angle to the plane of the floor could be interesting in the right situation but in general you want it to be parallel to the floor.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Gents! That is what I thought would look the best...but just wasn’t sure.

Now the question is how to make the two tapers leaving a squared off section between the two.....this isn’t just a simple run through the saw with a taper jig.

Thinking I would stop the taper jig cut short of the top of the banding section, hand saw the wedge waste off square, pare the squared banding section with a chisel, and plane the secondary taper. Another weird idea is to make the lower section (top of banding down) a separate piece and dowel or mortise/tenon it to the upper section. ????

[Jim Morgan]

Banding can conceal the joint between an upper square section and a separate lower tapered section. I'm sure this has been done before...

[Nelson Howe]

If you subscribe to FWW online, Garret Hack does a build video "Build an elegant side table" https://www.finewoodworking.com/vide...ant-side-table. He puts "socks" on the feet of his legs, and shows how to get the bevel for the pieces that make the sock, which is basically a very wide band on a tapered leg.

Nelson

[Dennis Tebo]

Phil,


The video I have shows two squares drawn on the end (bottom) of the leg. The outer square is where the long taper meets the bottom. The inner square is what you would hand plane down to from the transition at the bottom of the banding. The attached picture is exaggerated to show the tapers and how I believe the material for the banding should be removed. Its just about removing the material for the banding and leaving a square section to wrap your banding around.

IMG_1326.JPG

Another approach would be to use a router and go around the full stock and make a groove for the banding before putting on the tapers. The trick here is getting the right depth so your taper will run through the banding. If you make you own banding to can make it thicker giving yourself more room. Just some thoughts.

Dennis

[Phil Mueller]

Thank you! I have ordered what is supposed to be a relatively thick banding. Once I receive it, and know better what I’m working with, I’ll have a better idea of which way to go about it. I’d like to do what you have shown, Dennis. I’m hoping I can do a full length taper, square the section for the banding, then plane the bottom taper.