Lightweight Plywood Replacement?

[Mason Hanson]

I would recommend coroplast. It's very durable.

[Derek Arita]

I would recommend coroplast. It's very durable.

Mason, have you worked with Coroplast? What is it like to work with?

[Jim Becker]

Coroplast (the same stuff that many temporary signs are made of, such as for political stuff, FSBO, etc) is great as a filler surface, but it's not going to be good for structural support. It would require a good frame for the intended purpose here as long as stuff isn't going to be stacked on top.

[Alan Schwabacher]

If the problem is lugging the whole thing around, another option is to make a storage cabinet you don't carry around. The jig might need only a cleat for attachment to the work surface, and all the accessories could be stored available for use.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I make a lot of things for the equestrian community using 1/4" bb that I finger joint the corners. For the bottom re-inforce it with 1/2" solid wood to give more gluing surface. It will be plenty strong and nice and light. As suggested you could also do flight case construction but then you are dealing with pop rivets and extrusions. Fancy, but more work if your not set up for it. I buy rivets 4000 at a time.

[Phil Mueller]

Nice looking boxes, Charley. Well done!

[Derek Arita]

Charlie, man those are nice boxes. I may steal the idea of the brass corners. If I use lightweight stuff, it'll help reinforce the structure. Thanks.

[Jim Dwight]

I've made tool boxes of 6mm luan plywood with 3/4x3/4 softwood in the corners. They are plenty strong and relatively light. I put in softwood blocks where I want to attach the hinges and handle.

Also remember that some solid wood is lighter than plywood. Softwood certainly is. So a case of 1/2 softwood would be lighter than one of 1/2 plywood.