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Thread: Final sanding grit on cutting boards

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Houston, Texas area
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    Final sanding grit on cutting boards

    I'm currently making a couple long cutting boards as gifts. Maple, walnut and cherry. I currently have them sanded to 150 on a drum sander.

    1) What is your sanding regimen for cutting boards, for long and end grain boards, particularly the final grit?

    I'm guessing I don't want to go much finer than 150 on a RAS, or I'd potentially impede the mineral oil absorption.

    2) Similarly, if you are making end grain boards, what final grit do you use on the long-grain glue-up prior to cutting the strips and doing the end grain glue-up.

    Cheers,
    Mark McFarlane

  2. #2
    I don't have machines so my long grain boards are handplaned...glue joints and final dimensions.
    I then hand sand back down to 150 and raise the grain. Sand with 150 again and then oil and wax.

    I am a total newbie though, so defer to those more experienced. No issues with mine so far though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Central Missouri, U.S.
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    I've only made several, but I sanded to 220. Didn't seem to affect mineral oil absorption.

  4. #4
    I've made a few boards and I have always finished up to 150 grit on edge grain or end grain

  5. #5
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    Thanks Nathan, Nick, and William for responding.
    Mark McFarlane

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    folsom, california
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    i go to 320 w/ end grain boards (in maple) and have no problem w/ oil absorbing. i feel like super smooth board cleans easier. and people love to touch them. does not take too long to go thru 220 and 320. most time is spent on 100 and 120. by the way, i run them thru planner after putting round over on edge to prevent blowing end off. only take .005 " at a time. i get faster results than drum sander.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith wootton View Post
    i go to 320 w/ end grain boards (in maple) and have no problem w/ oil absorbing. i feel like super smooth board cleans easier. and people love to touch them. does not take too long to go thru 220 and 320. most time is spent on 100 and 120. by the way, i run them thru planner after putting round over on edge to prevent blowing end off. only take .005 " at a time. i get faster results than drum sander.
    Thanks Keith for the tips. FWIW, 80 grit on the drum sander works pretty quickly to level the boards after glue up. I'm curious how you do the round over before leveling the glue up. I have small steps between boards after the glue up.

    I've already 'mineral oiled' the first 2 boards after sanding to 150 grit. I'll try going to a finer grit on the next set, ... or maybe try re-sanding this first set of boards even though I have applied 3 coats of mineral oil,... yet sanding after applying the mineral oil might gunk up my Festool sanders and vacuum.

    Thanks again Keith.
    Mark McFarlane

  8. #8
    I don't sand cutting boards as it leaves the grit in the wood which you then get to eat. I run my boards through my planer and that is the final finish.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    folsom, california
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    104
    hi mark,

    i usually rough flatten with hand plane, although i quit using my wooden coffin plane after i found it was hard on the sole (yikes!). i use 3/8" radius round over on the somewhat less than flat board. round over is far from perfect, but as long as there is some transition to keep knife from hitting sharp trailing edge of board, no problem.

    always love to see pictures, even though i don't have camera or phone to take them.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Northern CA
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    140
    I run mine through the planer and then sand 60 through 220, followed by mineral oil. I personalize my boards for family and friends by routing in their names, filled in with tinted epoxy.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Hilo, Hawaii
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    Belt sander 120 on end grain cutting boards. Then ROS 120 - 220 - 320. Comes out nice and then apply butcher block, that I assume is beeswax with mineral oil. No absorption problems, and comes out nice. . Can say it works out in the long term, though.

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