Choose my Sawstop for me

[Dustin Bullard]

Just to throw this out there...

The difference between the 1.75hp and 3hp saws is literally the switch box (120v vs 220v) and the motor*. You can upgrade the 1.75hp saw to 220 any time by replacing the switch box, and you can upgrade the motor to the 3HP as long as you have the 220v switch box... Unlike most manufacturers, SawStop will happily sell you what you need to upgrade the 1.75HP saw to 3HP...

Now I'm not certain on the pricing (IIRC the cost is around $550 for the motor/switch box) but everyone jumping on the buy the 3hp saw or you will regret it train probably isn't taking into consideration that you can just upgrade the saw later for about the same cost as the price difference between the two saws...

*The 3HP saw comes with the nicer dust collection blade guard but that's not really part of the saw itself...

Oh, just to add one extra detail... I work almost exclusively with 8/4 Maple/Walnut stock to make cutting boards and have yet to have my 1.75HP saw bog down on me. I'll admit that I swap between a thin kerf Freud Premier Fusion combo blade and a thin kerf Freud Industrial 24T Ripping blade but it's been handled everything I have thrown at it so far... I'm not saying the 3HP saw isn't totally necessary for everyone but if you aren't out to plow through material at mach 3 you may find that you don't need the 3HP saw at all... Regardless its realistically a $110 gamble (price difference between the 1.75HP + 3HP Parts is ~$110 more than the 3HP outright...) If you can't swing that then you are probably in the wrong hobby anyways

[Bill Space]

Dustin, that is very interesting!

Wonder what the exact prices are today? Just thinking about IIRC and me personally...

Your point is very well taken at this end. I would have never guessed that one could upgrade a SawStop to higher horsepower for about the price difference between the two power levels, and have the original motor left over to boot.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the 52" fence and for the way I work actually wish I had the 36". I too do sheet goods with my TS55 and have not dedicated the acreage to the necessary in/out feed for sheet goods. Dado blades do require a special dado cartridge. If you haven't spent time with a SS before, by all means get a spare cartridge. I quickly blew my first cartridge by getting my Accumiter bar to close to the blade. Who knew? SS kindly provided me with a one time rookie replacement at no charge. Being used to a Uni-saw I had to learn to really pay attention to every new piece of wood I was cutting and its condition. Get the extra cartridge and unlike me, be smart and don't use it!

[Rick Costa]

Personally I'm running the 52" with 3hp motor. I got the overarm dust collection as part of the promotion when I bought the saw. At the time i had an anemic DC so I let that pull only at the 4" port in the base and used my Festool CT26 to connect under the saw to the arm which works great. I now have a Dust Gorilla Cyclone for the whole shop bit still use the same set up as my outfeed table has a spot for my Kapex. I suggest waiting for the sale in March and getting to overarm collector and skipping on the base or getting the ICS base if you really need mobility. My saw never moves and I'd think long and hard about if you really need yours to move.

A 220 circuit is nothing special just your normal 12 gauge (20 amp) or 14 guage (15 amp) wire doing to a double breaker. Depending on your setup if your not too far from the panel you could put an offset on the panel and install an outlet there and either put a longer 12 guage rubber cord on the saw or make yourself a heavy guage extension. Very simple and not an expensive proposition at all.

Get a quality blade (Forest?), make an outfeed or buy depending on your space as it is critical. Consider the router table mounted to the left side as it will increase your ease in ripping wide sheets easily.

Lots of other jigs and ideas will come later but those are some top of mind thoughts.

[liam c murphy]

I started with the 1.75 HP PCS. After having a subpanel installed in the shop,
I added a 3HP motor. I switched motors in summer of 2018, and the costs mentioned above sound accurate. The process of switching motors is fairly easy. My only complaint about the 3HP motor is that it isn’t a 5HP motor.

[Jack Frederick]

I guess we work much differently, Rick. While my 3hp 52" doesn't move often, the mobility kit makes it very easy to do. Depending upon what I am cutting, I sometimes spin the saw for clearance on long rips. Depends on your space and way in which you work. On my 1 1/2 hp Grizzly Cyclone, which is also a mobile unit I have a 4" wye. One 4" branch to the SS and the other has a 4x2 reducer that the hose from an old Fein vac fits and connects to the overarm. It does a really good job, imho.

[Bill Space]

Just a thought, but on my saw I have a 52" fence. Not a SawStop, but that is irrelevant for this comment.

One thing I like about the longer fence rail, is that when I use my table saw sled, I can just push the fence to the right and it is well out of the way. With a shorter 36" fence that might not be possible, and require removing the fence to use the sled.

With my Unifence, removal is simple and not an issue, but i still like just being able to push it to the side and forget about it.

Also with the wider fence position, I was able to incorporate a router table, and use the table saw fence with the router as well.

So the longer fence rail has some desirable advantages in my case. Perhaps in the OP's case too...

[Simon MacGowen]

Also with the wider fence position, I was able to incorporate a router table, and use the table saw fence with the router as well.

Some people have decided to have a separate fence for the router (if installed on the tablesaw), because they found out that if they needed to make a rip cut in the middle of a routing operation, they had to move the saw fence and that could screw up the fence setting for the routing.

Simon

[Jon Nuckles]

I forgot to address the miter gauge in my earlier post. As others have pointed out and as is the case with most table saw purchases, you should plan to get an after-market one. Everyone seems to like the Incra gauges, but I prefer the Kreg.

[Lee Schierer]

Everyone seems to like the Incra gauges, but I prefer the Kreg.

That is what I have and I really like it.

[Kevin Smira]

I already have an Incra 1000HD. It’s currently attached to my miter express, so I’ll most likely leave it on there. However, I have to replace the panels as my ridgid job site is a right tilt saw and the SS is a left tilt.

[Gary Cunningham]

I already have an Incra 1000HD. It’s currently attached to my miter express, so I’ll most likely leave it on there. However, I have to replace the panels as my ridgid job site is a right tilt saw and the SS is a left tilt.

Triple check that the Incra is in the correct slot before making a cut. And if you cut angles make sure to adjust the arm so it doesn’t make contact with the blade.

[Nick Decker]

I already have an Incra 1000HD. It’s currently attached to my miter express...

This is exactly how my first and only misfire occured. The miter fence position was set for the Express, then I moved it to the SawStop and forgot to check the blade clearance. Forewarned...

[Kevin Smira]

This is exactly how my first and only misfire occured. The miter fence position was set for the Express, then I moved it to the SawStop and forgot to check the blade clearance. Forewarned...

Haha. Thanks! I actually will probably just take it off the sled and use it as is with a sacrificial fence. The sled and drop panel was ok on my job site saw.