Surface Prep for Traditional Marine Varnish

[Bill Adamsen]

Prepping Mahogany (Honduran) and White oak as part of a traditional varnish buildup with the Epifane High Gloss Clear. What I have done in the past is to wait until really cured and sand initially by machine and then eventually with a block to knock down high spots and provide the flattest finish possible. Reducing to start and then applying thicker coats. I apply coats until it appears fab or I run out of time. It's a 7+/- coat process to get the desired result. I basically follow their directions.

Question: Between coats, can I use the 3M (Stotch-brite) abrasive pads (7447 and 7448) designed for the Marine Industry with aluminum oxide grit built in (at least on the red)? They are rated like steel wool with the 0 and 00 abrasiveness. 0 compares to 120, 00 compares to 180 grit according to some sources I’ve researched. That's actually pretty coarse compared to the sanding I would normally do. But the finished result really looks like a good prep for the next coat, and the sense I get it that removes less material. Do you think these are suitable for prepping varnish (Epifanes) between coats?

Separately: I'd be interested in hearing comparisons of the Epifane's Clear Varnish and their Wood Finish Gloss for those who have experimented. The 72 hour recoat without sanding would seem very attractive.

[Wayne Lomman]

These pads work but make sure they are cost effective and will achieve what you want. Because they are a pad, they abrade but don't flatten the finish. You need paper and a block for flattening.

I find them to be outrageously expensive and only worth it if there is a lot of intricate curved work which is hardly ever.

Have you considered changing to a 2 part marine clear? You will get the build and results with half the work. Cheers

[Bill Adamsen]

I had 'abraded' the entire finish and cleaned it earlier today. When I went out this evening to coat I just didn't feel it was flat enough. The abrading did not knock off the dust nubbins. So I knocked the larger flat surfaces down with 280, cleaned up, tack cloth and coated. The problem is dust control and part of that is the nature of trying to do finishes indoors in New England in winter with a furnace cycling. One of buddies turns the boats over for the final coat ... maybe that's the solution. We'll see.

[Tom M King]

The cheapest way to buy Scotchbrite pads is in the box of perforated rolls. There are several grades, but the coarser ones are commonly used for other things too, but much more expensive bought in small packages. Search this on ebay:

3M Scotch-Brite Clear Blend Prep Scuff Hand Pads, Roll of 30 5" x 6" Pads