Knock-Down Hardware for Bed Application

[Jim Becker]

I'm surprised at how many of you have the Domino XL, which costs $1400.

Aside from my Festool sanders and drill/drivers, the Domino-XL is now my most used Festool-tool in recent projects. It's paid for itself very quickly, if not in money, in time and precision.

[Patrick Kane]

I'm surprised at how many of you have the Domino XL, which costs $1400.

Had the 500 for about a year before i found a new in box XL on amazon for $1000. Needless to say, i jumped on it. It arrived with a busted corner of the systainer, but the tool was unused.

The XL is a better tool in just about every quantifiable way. Much like the 2200 is a better router than the 1400 in just about every way. Both tools were released years after their little brothers and include refined design elements. The depth stop is much better on the XL. The registration pins are better than the paddles on the 500. The ergonomics are much better on the XL. Finally, i find the XL to be a much more versatile tool with increased height and depth settings along with the larger tenon options. The 500 is good, but the 700 is considerably better.

[Charles Wiggins]

I'm about to receive a deposit on a Twin-XL over Queen "bunk bed" for a client's sea shore vacation home and it will obviously be a knock-down design for transport and the ability to get it into the home environment. Aside from traditional bed-bolts, I'm curious to know what "more contemporary" solutions for this have proven successful with makers for a bed application. This question was honestly spurred by a promotional email from McFeely's about a new knock-down hardware product line they are carrying and I do have an inquiry into the manufacturer to see if it's got the correct type of strength...it's not so much about weight handling as it is about "activity" handling, as it were.

What have you used successfully for this kind of project that provides a clean and strong knock-down connection that also "disappears"?

It's hard to beat traditional bed rail hooks. Never built with them, but set up and torn down TONS of beds with them, even antiques.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware...842,43730&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware...842,43730&ap=1

https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-w...ck-select-size

https://www.rockler.com/bed-rail-hooks

[Jim Becker]

Charles, those are absolutely good solutions and I looked at them early on, but my concern with them is that this is a bunk-bed application (TwinXL over Queen) and I think I want something that locks more positively like the Domino Connectors do. I appreciate the suggestion!!!

[Charles Wiggins]

I think I want something that locks more positively like the Domino Connectors do. I appreciate the suggestion!!!

I understand the safety/liability concerns, but if you had disassembled as many bunk beds as I have where you needed a mallet or hammer and scrap block to get the rails loose you wouldn't hesitate to use them.

Anyway - also be sure that the queen bed has support under the center. Lack of proper support will void the warranty on a queen inner spring mattress.

[George Makra]

You could also use cross dowels.

[Jim Becker]

Anyway - also be sure that the queen bed has support under the center. Lack of proper support will void the warranty on a queen inner spring mattress.

Yes, that's already incorporated into the design...and also necessary to support the slats, let alone the mattress.

[Scott Bernstein]

On my queen size bed design I used 3/4" poplar boards extending from one rail to the other. These are supported mid-span by two 8/4 oak beams running from the headboard to the footboard. These beams slide into dovetails I machined into the header and footer - I slightly oversized the dovetails so the oak beams can be easily disassembled. When I first assembled it, the poplar boards ran continously with no space in between. I decided maybe some ventilation would be a good idea, so from about 1" in from each end of each board I routed out about a 1/2" along both edges, such that there is 1" space between them. I can post some pictures on the thread if you like. I didn't really go off any plans, but this construction seemed like it would hold up well. As you can imagine it feels incredibly solid. I don't know exactly how much it weighs, but with a mattress it must be close to 500 pounds.

Scott

[Jim Becker]

That sounds like it worked out nicely, Scott. This build will be pretty stout as it's based on a metal bed design that the client likes from a commercial supplier. I've worked things out so I believe it's going to be very solid when all locked together. Material will be maple with a white finish. The client has opted for a custom fabricated steel safety rail for the top bunk...I have a local welding shop that is doing that sub-contract. I think that the hardest part of this project from a construction standpoint is going to be the darn angled ladder component! LOL

[Ted Calver]

On my queen size bed design I used 3/4" poplar boards extending from one rail to the other. These are supported mid-span by two 8/4 oak beams running from the headboard to the footboard. These beams slide into dovetails I machined into the header and footer - I slightly oversized the dovetails so the oak beams can be easily disassembled. When I first assembled it, the poplar boards ran continously with no space in between. I decided maybe some ventilation would be a good idea, so from about 1" in from each end of each board I routed out about a 1/2" along both edges, such that there is 1" space between them. I can post some pictures on the thread if you like. I didn't really go off any plans, but this construction seemed like it would hold up well. As you can imagine it feels incredibly solid. I don't know exactly how much it weighs, but with a mattress it must be close to 500 pounds. Scott

Sure would like to see some pics of your bed project, Scott. If not here, then perhaps on a separate post. I'm interested in how the oak beams were positioned and what the slat configuration looked like.

[Scott Bernstein]

Sure would like to see some pics of your bed project, Scott. If not here, then perhaps on a separate post. I'm interested in how the oak beams were positioned and what the slat configuration looked like.

Here are some pictures. I cut four dovetails into the head and foot of the bed, but only ended up using two. The bed is Hickory.

The two nightstands are also made from Hickory. The boxes are mitered with biscuits to help alignment and a little strength. The legs are joined to the base with Festool Dominoes.

[Jim Becker]

That's really nice and clean, Scott! Beautiful bed.

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I have opted for the Festool connectors and it makes sense given most of the other joinery will also be using Dominos. The deposit for the commission came in, so orders are info materials. I also found an online version of a Domino manual that clearly shows the proper setups for the connectors I'm using so as soon as they arrive, I'll be "practicing".

[Jerry Wright]

The connectors that are 1st on Charles Wiggins's post are bbc amazing. Noticed to the proper depth in head board or footboard and side rails, they are rock solid. I have built several beds with me and you have to use a rubber mallet to assemble and disassemble. One of the beds is a twin over trundle and had 20 yrs of kids jumping on it and still rock solid.

[Ted Calver]

Here are some pictures. I cut four dovetails into the head and foot of the bed, but only ended up using two. The bed is Hickory.
The two nightstands are also made from Hickory. The boxes are mitered with biscuits to help alignment and a little strength. The legs are joined to the base with Festool Dominoes.

Scott, Thank you for the pictures. I've been looking at ways to avoid the center leg and it looks like your oak beam made that possible.

[Scott Bernstein]

Scott, Thank you for the pictures. I've been looking at ways to avoid the center leg and it looks like your oak beam made that possible.

I hated the idea of the 5th leg. Even though you can't really see a fifth leg under the bed I really wanted this design to have a very clean overall appearance. It's a Scandanavian-inspired design, so I wanted a look of simplicity and durability - and I would know the fifth leg was there... I think a single Oak Beam for this Queen size bed would have been sufficient for mid-span support but it feels awfully solid with two. I believe one could build a ramp and drive a car on top of this thing.