Beat up tool rest....

[John K Jordan]

Just a thought here.
For those of us who do not have a welder handy, would it be workable to JB Weld (or similar) a hardened rod to the rest? Use the corner of the file to make a groove and then epoxy the drill rod on? I like the cast tool rests because they absorb a lot of vibration. And they are longer than my Robusts.

I don't think you would even need to make a groove - just rough up the cast iron a bit first. When I epoxy hardened steel (or carbide) I also rough it up a bit with whatever it takes, sometimes a diamond burr on a Dremel. I heard that Robust used to use such a compound to glue the hardened rod to the tops of their steel rests but started tack welding when some popped off when dropped. They still use some kind of compound to fill in the gaps on the sides after welding.

I'm not stumping for Robust but as a satisfied customer I highly recommend their comfort rests and low profile rests for smaller things. They are the only ones I use now except for occasionally using a special rest such as a box rest. (And their replacement warranty is lifetime, no questions asked - problem, send it back.)

JKJ

[Reed Gray]

I used JB weld, I think, and the thicker version for my first prototypes. If you know a black smith, they may be able to case harden the drill rod. It wouldn't be necessary to put a groove in the tool rest. If you drop it and it hits the floor, the epoxy sticks to the rougher cast iron or steel, and the rod pops off. Been there, done that, more than once... All of mine are welded on now...

The comfort rest from Robust is nice. I do prefer a straight bar at about a 20 or so degree angle to the curved bar/support arm. Main reason is that if I drop the handle, the Robust arm is in the way. There are a lot of turners who when turning spindles prefer the tool rest to be above center.

robo hippy

[Michael Costa]

Yikes, how in the world can you drop a tool rest??!? In almost two decades of turning I haven't dropped one once. ?

Just to be clear, the tools them selves won't have nicks. If the tool shafts have sharp edges they can cause nicks in the softer cast iron or even mild steel tool rests. But worse, if they have sharp edges they can catch on nicks as you slide them on the rest, messing up that perfect cut.

I have 2 tool rests, an 10" and an 6'. When switching between them I often put them in places where a slight vibration from the lathe causes them to hit the lathe legs before the floor. Lol.

[John K Jordan]

I have 2 tool rests, an 10" and an 6'. When switching between them I often put them in places where a slight vibration from the lathe causes them to hit the lathe legs before the floor. Lol.

Can you put your lathe near a wall like this? Everything within reach and easy to put back.

lathe_toolrests_IMG_5751.jpg lathe_PM2_Jan17_IMG_5751.jpg

I've had to rearrange them a few times as I got different tools but it was easy since I hang everything on deck screws in plywood. Of course, some people like to put their lathes out in the middle of the room so this wouldn't work for them.

JKJ

[john taliaferro]

I used the rods out of car struts to make tool post also rear hatch struts for small rest . They are hard and free remember to drill a hole first and vent the pressure .

[John K Jordan]

I used the rods out of car struts to make tool post also rear hatch struts for small rest . They are hard and free remember to drill a hole first and vent the pressure .

Are they 1" diameter?