Large Countersink for Ipe Wood

[Jon McElwain]

So, I've got a project that is going to require bolting Ipe lumber to a steel frame. I've got 5/16" flathead bolts (stainless), so I need to countersink the head flush. The head diameter is 5/8". I've got about 750 holes to drill, so I do not want a two step process where I drill the pilot then countersink with a different bit (1400 drill operations). It looks like Amana has a couple of options for Carbide tipped countersinks with a drill bit that will get my 5/16" bore and 5/8" countersink, but before I drop $40 on a bit, I wanted ask some questions:

• Do you know of another countersink bit that would work for my application?
• What is the likelyhood that one bit will drill 750 holes in Ipe before getting too dull?
• Any other recommendations?

I've done my homework on the Ipe - it is hard and it is tough on cutting tools. The client likes the wood and the fasteners so I'm locked in on those. I just need to figure out the best tool for the countersinking. So far, Amana is the only manufacturer that I have found with a 5/8" countersink attached to a drill bit.

Let me know your thoughts!

Jon


Picture of my bolts and the two Amana bits I am considering:
20190329_144602.jpg20190329_144647.jpg20202.jpg416009_2.jpg

[Bill Dufour]

If you really want flush you need to use a plunge router or a large countersink cage. Doing it by eye will result in under and oversunk heads. I would use carbide tipped tooling. make sure the countersinks are the correct angle. There are 3 common angles.
I would use two drills one to drill and one to countersink. Not a big deal to drill 10-20 holes then countersink them. Then it is time to move your body over to the next work area.
You can inquire about custom ground step or core drills from a drill maker. I believe a good grinding shop can make one locally for not much more then regular sharpening cost.
Bill D.

On edit; countersink cage is 0.001" adjustable is standard.
https://www.browntool.com/Listview/t...0/Default.aspx

[peter gagliardi]

W.L. Fuller in Rhode Island probably has what you need. They are a supplier to the boatbuilding industry.
750 holes is really not a lot, probably a couple hours at most, if you are taking it easy.
The drill bit will dull first, but just get a spare drill.

[Jeff Duncan]

That setup looks like it should do the job. I wouldn't worry too much about the bit as it looks to be a basic twist drill. Id be more worried about the countersink dulling. Of course if I was doing the job I wouldn't even worry much about that as I'd have plenty of extra included for extra bits and whatnot. I'd advise you to charge well for this project. Ipe is not only hard, it's dust is really nasty and should be avoided. Also it weighs a ton, hefting boards around on a large project will take its toll. I've done several projects with it over the years and strongly advise not to underestimate working with the weight of it.

good luck,
JeffD

[Derek Cohen]

Lee Valley sell a large countersink. Look them up on line. I used it to chamfer 3/4" holes in my benchtop.

EDIT: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42240,42281

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ole Anderson]

Is the setup such that you can do it on a drill press? Keeps your holes straight and you are able to set the depth stop for a flush screw fit on the countersink and get a consistent offset from the edge of the board. Easier to set up dust collection too. BTW, stainless is soft and you can easily strip out that small Allen head. Easy does it.

[Frank Pratt]

My only experience with ipe is putting down about 200 sq. ft. of it on my deck. I used trim screws to hold it down & dulled 5 or 6 HSS bits drilling the pilot holes. I don't think anything but a carbide countersink would last long.

[Bill Dufour]

My only experience with ipe is putting down about 200 sq. ft. of it on my deck. I used trim screws to hold it down & dulled 5 or 6 HSS bits drilling the pilot holes. I don't think anything but a carbide countersink would last long.

Did you sharpen them as you went? that seems like an incredable rate of dulling. Not all HSS is the same. and drill temper changes as you get farther from the factory tip.
Bill D

[joseph f merz]

I got a Amana carbide countersink .it did not last any 750 holes in IPE ,the carbide shattered . The thing is though IPE is not a wood . the way i hear it is that it is more like a brand making up different iron wood trees . point is i hear and see on line people building all sorts of things with it that I had /or the jobs i was on were totally unsuccessful . So might last longer for you . curious if it does .Do not breath the dust ,stuff is ruff on the immune system .

[peter gagliardi]

If your countersink shattered, there was something wrong with it. Wood, is only wood, though Ipe is harder than most.
It does not even approach carbide in hardness though.

[Tom Bender]

If you are drilling thru then you can slide the countersink up the shaft past the flutes and it will work better in two ways;

The exposed shaft will keep the countersink centered

The flutes can clear the chips instead of jamming them into the countersink

Make a wooden sleeve to stop the countersink from going too deep. This can slide over the drill shaft above the countersink and project down to the surface of the workpiece. It can slip on the drill shaft so it will not mar the workpiece.

[Frank Pratt]

Did you sharpen them as you went? that seems like an incredable rate of dulling. Not all HSS is the same. and drill temper changes as you get farther from the factory tip.
Bill D

No, I didn't sharpen them cause they were only 1/8" bits, but they were decent quality. I had a cheap one from HD that only lasted several holes. The stuff is incredibly hard & abrasive.

[Frank Pratt]

The thing is though IPE is not a wood

I agree. I think its really granite that is wood colored.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Ipe is hard, but it stills well. I would get the Lee Vallet countersink bits. That’s what I use. 750 holes is a lot to ask of any bit. I would get more than one of tbe size you need.

Ipe smells like a turd when you cut it. It’s also very splintery- much like greenheart if you’ve ever used it. The splinters are irritating, so get them out as soon as reasonable.