Wedding gift for a friend

[Malcolm McLeod]

...Any suggestions?

With that grain, it won't need much 'in the wood' to pop - and I bet it will have plenty of depth with virtually any finish with even a little oil in it .

My favorite for B.Walnut is(was) Formby's tung oil, but it has changed(?) in the last few years. I haven't kept up with the corporate side of the product line, so not sure of the cause. This is if you want it to finish dark!

To get a lighter color finish, but nearly same depth, I've taken to just using clear shellac.

[Christopher Charles]

Hi Brian,

I like a coat of oil followed by clear shellac with wax on top for both appearance and feel. Here's a desk I made for my son with that finish combo and it has held up pretty well.

Best,

Chris

IMG_1931.jpg

[lowell holmes]

Show Off

[brian zawatsky]

Hi Brian,

I like a coat of oil followed by clear shellac with wax on top for both appearance and feel. Here's a desk I made for my son with that finish combo and it has held up pretty well.

Best,

Chris

IMG_1931.jpg

Chris, the depth of the finish on that desk is outstanding!

[brian zawatsky]

With that grain, it won't need much 'in the wood' to pop - and I bet it will have plenty of depth with virtually any finish with even a little oil in it .

My favorite for B.Walnut is(was) Formby's tung oil, but it has changed(?) in the last few years. I haven't kept up with the corporate side of the product line, so not sure of the cause. This is if you want it to finish dark!

To get a lighter color finish, but nearly same depth, I've taken to just using clear shellac.

I liked Formby’s a lot too, but it definitely has changed in consistency recently. I stuck with the cut down Waterlox over danish oil, will apply a few coats and finish by rubbing out with wax after it is fully cured.

[brian zawatsky]

Almost done, will take some time now since I need dry time between coats of finish. This is oil & 1 coat of wiping varnish. Will build 3 coats and rub out with wax. Next update when complete. 7EA62FAF-F7F6-4029-9E1A-334A6EEAE7C8.jpg
CBB42F5E-D094-42EA-B943-774295F4FD50.jpg

[Mark Rainey]

Wow! Nice Brian

[David Eisenhauer]

Very nice work Brian. I have never thought of creating a base out of moulding and will gladly rip your idea off at the drop of a hat, sorry to say . What size rounds did you use for the various coved shapes? I am just jumping into moulding planes and you are inspiring me to move ahead. What sizes of hollows/rounds are the most used? I'm good for rebates and corner beads, now need to figure most useful sizes for hollows/rounds used primarily on 3/4" material.

[brian zawatsky]

Wow! Nice Brian

Thanks Mark

[brian zawatsky]

Very nice work Brian. I have never thought of creating a base out of moulding and will gladly rip your idea off at the drop of a hat, sorry to say . What size rounds did you use for the various coved shapes? I am just jumping into moulding planes and you are inspiring me to move ahead. What sizes of hollows/rounds are the most used? I'm good for rebates and corner beads, now need to figure most useful sizes for hollows/rounds used primarily on 3/4" material.

Thanks David. The base moulding is basically an ogee with a fillet at the top. The convex portion was shaped with numbers 6 & 8 hollows, and the concave portion used numbers 6 and 10 rounds. The majority of the convex shape was made by the 6, with the 8 forming the top of the transition between the convex and concave portions. Again the 6 round did the heavy lifting on the concave, with the 10 forming the elliptical little flare towards the foot.

For the cove moulding that forms the frame for the lid, the majority of the waste was roughed out with a series of rabbets of various depths, and the cove was cut with two rounds, a number 18 down towards the edge and a number 16 up by the panel.

I also ground a few custom scrapers to match the profiles & clean up all the tracks that were left by the various planes.

[Rob Luter]

Hubba Hubba!

[Christopher Charles]

I'd say that finish worked out well! As did your selection of grain orientation.

Best,
Chris

[brian zawatsky]

As as usual, life has intervened and prevented me from wrapping up this small project. Here’s a look at the finished lid (video works better with the figure)

[brian zawatsky]

I'd say that finish worked out well! As did your selection of grain orientation.

Best,
Chris

Thanks Chris! I paid a lot of attention to grain orientation in this one. It’s usually an afterthought for me, regrettably lol

[Dave Beauchesne]

Spectacular! You are letting the wood talk, but there is some serious talent in hearing it's full voice.

Once finish is applied, well, I can only imagine. Well done ( so far )

Dave B