Couple random questions: jointer restoration, 12" ras blade, Delta 12-14" ts table...

[Bob Vaughan]

Jointer: 87503 & 87502

[Jon Singer]

I've used the WW1 on a RAS since the 1980's, and it works great. I'd just keep a cheap Irwin, or something like that for questionable wood. It's easy to change the blade by using a real 6 point box end of a combination wrench on the nut, and using the wrench slam on a block of wood method to loosen-same as a bench grinder. If it's one of the cheap RAS's, with a flexible arm, nothing you put on it will keep it from jambing.

Aircraft rivets work great for tags, but you need a pneumatic rivet gun, and bucking bar that will fit behind the surface that the tag is on. I don't know anything else that will look like the original ones.

Ras is an old 12" Dewalt. Everyone says it's one of the good ones. I was trying to keep everything 10" since I had a 10" ts & my last ras was 10" but now that I stumbled on a 12-14 ts and the 12" ras... It'll be a couple more weeks till the new saws are sorted, cleaned up and painted. Once they are together I guess I'll look for a cheap 12" scms 0-deg or negative hook blade at a big box.

I've seen guys use aluminum pins (actually looks like nails they clip off them hammer them down) or copper pins (probably 14ga or 12ga wire that they also hammer down). Didn't realize these were steel drive pins going into blind holes.

[Don Jarvie]

There’s a 12 inch chop master for sale in the classified you may want to consider.