Lee Valley turners polish

[Bob Oswin]

I am having some problems with this Lee Valley turners polish and wonder if any of you have mastered the application?
I am following the instructions as best I can but the finish is drying far too fast and gumming up before it spreads around the surface.
I have tried thinning it and that results in white streaks.
It worked passibly on small parts but this 12 inch bowl is not turning out .
I have stripped it 3 times now. How slow should the lathe be turning?
I am about 600 rpm.
I have had better results with lacquer and its supposed to be a tough to apply.
Greatful for any and all hints before I pitch it.

Bob

[Anthony Yakonick]

I'm not to sure about using a friction finish on a piece that large, I would prefer a oil finish like Watco or Waterlox. Watco has been my choice for the last few years, I can get a dull finish or a high gloss depending on the number of coats and how much buffing.

Anthony

[Jim Becker]

I'm not to sure about using a friction finish on a piece that large, I would prefer a oil finish like Watco or Waterlox. Watco has been my choice for the last few years, I can get a dull finish or a high gloss depending on the number of coats and how much buffing.

I agree totally. Friction polishes tend to get "unruly" on larger objects, although they are great on spindle turnings, pens and the like. I use Watco or Mixwax Antique oil and use a technique not unlike using friction polish...this was taught to me by one of the editors of WOOD Magazine a couple of years ago.

Basicly, after you are done sanding, apply a liberal coat of oil to the piece and let it soak in for a few minutes. Wipe off any excess. Then, turn on the lathe at a few hundred RPM and using a soft cloth, buff the finish into the piece. This should noticeably warm the turning and the rag and "push" the curing of the oil. Do this a few times to build up a bit of finish. Once you have a smooth surface, let the workpiece cure fully for about a week and buff it out with the Beall buffing system or similar to a final shine. This technique works with both small and large objects, although you have to take great care if there are any inclusions or openings in the sides of your turning. Woods that are close grained and that polish up/burnish naturally well, with really shine when you are done!

[Ken Salisbury]

Like Jim Becker, I prefer to use Oil on larger turned objects like bowls. My process is only slightly different than Jim's. I apply an even coat of either "Minwax Tung Oil Finish" or "Minwax Antique Oil" with a folded paper towel to the object while the lathe is not running. I then start the lathe at 500 rpm and still using the paper towel, even out the spread of the oil. I turn lathe off - wait 30-60 minutes and repeat the step over and over until the wood seems to have absorbed enough oil. I then buff with a soft cloth. I repeat this process until the desired sheen is obtained. I then wait 24 - 48 hours and apply a liberal coat of "Minwax Finishing Wax" and buff with a soft cloth at approx 1200 rpm.

Here is an example of a bowl using that process:


<p align="center"> <IMG src="http://www.klsal.com/ebowl2.jpg">

[Bob Oswin]

Ken Salisbury, Jim Becker, Anthony!
Thanks so much for your prompt replies.
You all seem to have a better handle on this than me.

That's why I come here!

I am going to strip this bowl and try the methods you suggest.

Pity they don't say something on the Lee Valley product.
I wasted a lot of time and a bit of money til now.
I am definitely comming here first from now on!

Bob

[Ray Dewey]

Hi Mr Bob: don't know if you've seen this other site.

http://www.shellac.net/Shellac-FrenchPolish.html

[Bob Oswin]

[QUOTE=Ray Dewey]Hi Mr Bob: don't know if you've seen this other site.

http://www.shellac.net/Shellac-FrenchPolish.html[/QUOTEt

Thanks Mr. Dewey.

That's basically the technique I have used for flat surfaces etc on finished furniture.
The problem seems to be with the Lee Valley formula.
It sets too fast for large turnings.
No mention of this on the bottle unfortunately.

I would not have used it but for the label calling it "Turners" polish.

regards Bob

[Steve Evans]

Bob

I would definitely take it back to Lee Valley. Anytime I've had to deal with them on returns they've been more than fair.

[Bob Oswin]

Bob

I would definitely take it back to Lee Valley. Anytime I've had to deal with them on returns they've been more than fair.

Hi Steve:
I wasn't too concerned about the money
It was only about $200.00 a gallon.

You would think at those prices they could come up with a more extensive application instruction sheet.
One of the nice things about a forum is that we can share our experiences and hopefully save some other guy a ton of time and aggravation at least.

Bob

[Bill Grumbine]

Bob

I am coming in late on this thread, and far be it from me to contradict my esteemed colleagues, but a friction polish can be used successfully on larger turnings. A good friend of mine, who has since gone on to his eternal reward, regularly used Behlen's Woodturner's Finish on bowls up to 12" and more in diameter. I remember one piece of maple burl which I gave him. He turned a lidded bowl, close to 15" in diameter, and sold it for $1500! The key for him was thinning and slow speed to apply it, then moving up in speed to buff it. I'm throwing this is mainly so you don't get to throwing your finish out.

For me, I usually use Danish Oil, but now with my new spray gun, I might be inclined to start spraying things.

Bill

[Bob Oswin]

Bob

. A good friend of mine, who has since gone on to his eternal reward, regularly used Behlen's Woodturner's Finish on bowls up to 12" and more in diameter.
For me, I usually use Danish Oil, but now with my new spray gun, I might be inclined to start spraying things.

Bill

Hi Bill:
You know the "stubborn" in me says it( the LV turners polish) should work .
I think my lathe (jet copy) is just traveling too fast to get a decent spread before the resin gels. I have french polished over the years on flat furniture and you get a rhythm and a feel for the patina as it develops.
I couldn't achieve this this time.
I will give the fellows their dues and try the oil finish as suggested.
On the next piece I am going to try lacquer on my HLVP and see what I can produce.
Finish is the most critical step in success and it seems to take me the longest with the poorest results. I will not give up until I master it.
Thanks for your help and your suggestions.