Bow Saw Blade

[Brian Shutter]

I'm making a 12" bow saw and am looking for a supplier for some 12" blades. I checked Highland Hardware, Rockler, Tools For Working Wood, and Woodcraft.

Any ideas?

I suppose I could use a bandsaw blade. Any tips on cutting a blade? Hacksaw?

Thanks.

Brian

[Doug Shepard]

http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?...oductID=102365

[Steve Wargo]

Find a local supplier that makes bandsaw blades and just order a couple feet of a few different TPI. Won't spend more than a few bucks and you'll have a bunch of spares and some that will be useful for different applications. Just cut them with a set of cutters. Hope this helps. FYI I paid about $3 for the last dozen Bowsaw blades I purchased.

[Brian Shutter]

Thanks guys.

I tried Garrett Wade earlier but couldn't connect with them. Thanks for the link.

I had a couple old bandsaw blades in the shop that I don't like. I tried cutting with a hacksaw but didn't have much luck but found that I could break them by bending them over my bench edge and rapping them with a hammer. As soon as I get the bracket mortises chopped and the stretcher's tenons cut I will be able to test the blade. I may end up going to the bandsaw manufacturer and ordering a few feet of different blades. Fortunately, the blade maker is on the same block as my lumber supplier. Thanks for your help.

Brian

[Doug Shepard]

Found another one
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11768

[Dave Anderson NH]

I use bandsaw blades on the bowsaws which I make. My stock for blades comes from Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf). I use their blade stock because it is not induction hardened and therefore not as brittle as some blade stock. Originally I bought the sets of 3 blades from Garrett Wade and was disappointed. The blades are expensive at $30 for the set of 12" and I found that they are VERY brittle and often broke as I was tensioning the saw. They are not worth the money. With the low cost of bandsaw blades, not only do you get multiple blades for the price, but you can buy several different sizes and tooth configurations for different uses.

[Philip Glover]

Brian,
Try Specialty Saw Inc @ http://www.specialtysaw.com/
They'll make anything. I find them very good to work with.

Regards,
Phil Glover

[Brian Shutter]

I use bandsaw blades on the bowsaws which I make. My stock for blades comes from Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf). I use their blade stock because it is not induction hardened and therefore not as brittle as some blade stock. Originally I bought the sets of 3 blades from Garrett Wade and was disappointed. The blades are expensive at $30 for the set of 12" and I found that they are VERY brittle and often broke as I was tensioning the saw. They are not worth the money. With the low cost of bandsaw blades, not only do you get multiple blades for the price, but you can buy several different sizes and tooth configurations for different uses.

Dave,

Since you've made a few of these saws I'm guessing you've experimented with the blades a bit. I'm wondering what blades you find most useful. I had on old 1/2" 6tpi blade sitting around so I tried it in my saw and it's just too course to get a good cut. I plan on making a couple more saws for different uses (general rough cutting, curved cuts, dovetails...). I checked Rockler's bandsaw stock (Olson) and see that their only 14tpi blade is 1/8 inch. I'm not sure I could drill a 1/16 inch hole through the middle of that for my pin. They do have a 3/16 inch 10tpi that I bet would work well. How about tooth patterns? Do you notice a difference with hook vs skip vs regular?

Thanks

Brian

[Dave Anderson NH]

Hi Brian, I would be leery about a 3/16 wide blade being able to take the drilling for a pin and still have enough meat left to have any durability. I use a 1/4" 12 TPI as my standard blade and occasionally use a 3/8" blade when I need to do heavy work. If you really need to saw tight curves, make a 6" saw using a pin blade type coping saw blade. I use the regular tooth pattern and haven't used the skip tooth type.