Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28

Thread: Bandsaw won’t cut straight

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Sapphire NC
    Posts
    3

    Bandsaw won’t cut straight

    Just bought Carter guides for my 14 inch ShopFox bandsaw. Never was able to cut a straight line with the fence. Thought the new guides would help. They didn’t. The two wheels are in alignment. The guides are set per the instructions. The blade gullets are centered on the wheel. The tension on this 1/2inch blade is set close to 3/4. There is no “flutter” as the blade runs. I’ve got about 1/4 inch “play” in the blade. What the heck am I doing wrong? Help?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,786
    Are you using a new blade?
    Aj

  3. #3
    Are you familiar with “blade drift”? Sometimes the blade doesn’t cut straight and you need to adjust your fence to match the angle the blade is drifting off course. That means the fence won’t be set at 90 deg to the table. There should be some screws on the fence that you can loosen to adjust the fence angle.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Piercefield, NY
    Posts
    1,704
    Try with a new blade, if the problem goes away it is that your blade is unequally dull, if it stays then there is something deeper to dig into.
    Zach

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    The single most common user error is to push the wood too hard and too fast into the blade. Even well set up equipment will fail.

    Regards from Vienna

    Derek

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    S.E. Tennessee ... just a bit North of Chattanooga
    Posts
    1,018
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Daily View Post
    Are you familiar with “blade drift”? Sometimes the blade doesn’t cut straight and you need to adjust your fence to match the angle the blade is drifting off course. That means the fence won’t be set at 90 deg to the table. There should be some screws on the fence that you can loosen to adjust the fence angle.
    There is no such thing as blade drift ... it is a sign that the saw is not properly setup/aligned.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Sapphire NC
    Posts
    3
    Now I am and it works perfectly. Thank you!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKinney, TX
    Posts
    2,067
    You may just have a dull blade especially if you’ve been cutting curves.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Sapphire NC
    Posts
    3
    Thanks everyone! Replaced the blade with a new one and the issue went away. Guess I’m too cheap to throw them away when I should

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    I rip on my 10" table saw using a carbide blade. If I carefully match the halves, the joint is not at all unsightly.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Barger View Post
    Thanks everyone! Replaced the blade with a new one and the issue went away. Guess I’m too cheap to throw them away when I should
    You said you have a new BS so I presumed the blade was new. Glad you got it figured out- thanks for posting the solution!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Barger View Post
    Thanks everyone! Replaced the blade with a new one and the issue went away. Guess I’m too cheap to throw them away when I should
    Dull blade will get you every time! I'm also too cheap to throw a blade away when it gets dull. I use 1/2" 3tpi blades which are easy to sharpen. I sharpen several times before discarding the blade. The cut is sometimes not as clean after the way I sharpen (touching the side of a little dremel metal-cutting disk to the front of each tooth) but it always cuts well and cuts as smooth as I need for processing green log sections into turning blanks.

    bandsaw_sharpen.jpg

    JKJ

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,295
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    Dull blade will get you every time! I'm also too cheap to throw a blade away when it gets dull. I use 1/2" 3tpi blades which are easy to sharpen. I sharpen several times before discarding the blade. The cut is sometimes not as clean after the way I sharpen (touching the side of a little dremel metal-cutting disk to the front of each tooth) but it always cuts well and cuts as smooth as I need for processing green log sections into turning blanks.

    bandsaw_sharpen.jpg

    JKJ
    Just for fun I thought I would try to sharpen the blade that came with my bandsaw (not a quality blade at all) and after about 20 teeth I gave up. I'm usually cheap but the monotony would of drove me nuts sharpening 150 teeth. If it was a carbide blade I would have done it but anything less, never.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    Just for fun I thought I would try to sharpen the blade that came with my bandsaw (not a quality blade at all) and after about 20 teeth I gave up. I'm usually cheap but the monotony would of drove me nuts sharpening 150 teeth. If it was a carbide blade I would have done it but anything less, never.
    The 3tpi blades for my 18" Rikon have 426 teeth. It feels like it takes me 15 minutes or so to sharpen but I don't look at the clock. I've sharpened this type of blade many times over the years.

    Maybe it's a zen thing.

    JKJ

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    862
    Bandsaw blades dull pretty fast, especially if just carbon steel. I've had good service since switching to Lenox diemaster bimetal blades. The carbides will last longer, but are too pricey for me and cut a wider kerf. The bimetals are a good compromise of price and performance. A dull blade is the first thing to suspect when a properly adjusted bladed won't cut straight.

    I think all band saws have some drift, though, that has to be compensated in the fence.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •