shaper questions - offset fence

[Joe Calhoon]

Keeping the fence close is good for dust collection, that’s the advantage fo the Aigner Pressure jaws. Early on I used the Weaver setup for outboard where you remove the fence to place spring hold downs for pressure. That setup was not good for dust collection.

Here are pictures of using the Aigner outboard setup on the T23. These are 4” thick window frame parts being machined in one pass. One picture shows the pressure jaws removed. If you have a heat gun these plexiglass Springs can be shop made easily.

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[brent stanley]

patrick - for what it's worth, and despite my recent issues, i would never go back to doing sticking cuts against the fence. this method effectively ensures there's no snipe, and, you only have to S3S the stock - the cut edge is removed entirely, and can be... rough. sticking is a breeze with an outboard fence.

that is, of course, unless your split feeder wheels (and your lack of experience) kick the stock back towards the cutter, causing a nice dip in your perfect cut.

--- dz

Glazing bars with split wheels is a pain too!

[David Zaret]

joe - got it. looks as though i have a few more aigner things to purchase.

[Patrick Walsh]

Yeah joe it was the weaver setup.

He also had this dedicated mini shaper solely for sticking.

I’d like to at least give the back fence method a try when I get the new t23 if only for another tool in th toolbox.

Even sticking with the feeder I only s3s..

Well that’s not entirely true. That is how I was taught I tend to s4s even though I take that 32nd off as I find when it comes to gluing up my doors it’s so much more easy to get them consistently square. I just hate making anything not perfectly square. Really gets my goat to be out even a 64th as they add up..

Keeping the fence close is good for dust collection, that’s the advantage fo the Aigner Pressure jaws. Early on I used the Weaver setup for outboard where you remove the fence to place spring hold downs for pressure. That setup was not good for dust collection.

Here are pictures of using the Aigner outboard setup on the T23. These are 4” thick window frame parts being machined in one pass. One picture shows the pressure jaws removed. If you have a heat gun these plexiglass Springs can be shop made easily.

29259B1D-846A-4B4D-AE18-706CA7A2A5A3.jpg
AE852AA0-79FD-4E79-B1B5-172E4E85C298.jpg

[Patrick Walsh]

Hmm a back fence is the perfect setup for window mullions and or glazing bars.


Yet another good reason to get familiar.. funny how we all can just keep doing what it is we know as apposed to learn a new trick..

Glazing bars with split wheels is a pain too!

[brent stanley]

Hmm a back fence is the perfect setup for window mullions and or glazing bars.


Yet another good reason to get familiar.. funny how we all can just keep doing what it is we know as apposed to learn a new trick..

Yup! I use it a the time. I actually use the outboard fence on the shaper for bringing stock down to final width on a big job with miles to do because I don't have a power feeder on the bench saw yet.

[Patrick Walsh]

Hmm

I don’t do miles of anything in my work but that is another viable logical use of a shaper.

Yup! I use it a the time. I actually use the outboard fence on the shaper for bringing stock down to final width on a big job with miles to do because I don't have a power feeder on the bench saw yet.

[Joe Calhoon]

joe - got it. looks as though i have a few more aigner things to purchase.

Dave, there are 2 ways to attach the Thickness stop to the pull out bar. When I get home I will get some pictures for you.

here is a example of some shop made springs a friend put on his SAC profiler
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[brent stanley]

Hmm

I don’t do miles of anything in my work but that is another viable logical use of a shaper.

I don't usually either but every now and then something comes along. I made reproduction wooden siding for half of a big old east coast house one time and that was a big job. Had to roll the small shaper outside to allow for the lengths. I couldn't use dust collection out there, so I had to clean up with a snow shovel!
B

[Joe Calhoon]

Hmm a back fence is the perfect setup for window mullions and or glazing bars.


Yet another good reason to get familiar.. funny how we all can just keep doing what it is we know as apposed to learn a new trick..

Patrick,
Yes the Weaver setup is only effective on a dedicated shaper. The Euro shapers and accessories are set up for quick change over. All my work is mostly short run and that works well with what I use.
I like the outboard fence for window parts and short parts. Doors I prefer the split fence so I don’t have to keep changing width of the outboard fence. For narrow bars the outboard fence can work with some modifications but I prefer a add on fence for the split fence. This fence removes 1 mm from the edge. Pictures should be self explaining.

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[Patrick Walsh]

Joe,

To date that is what I have done for window parts or in my case door parts for lites..

Man in anticipation of what I hope to be bringing home a T23 this thread is helping me spend spend spend.

The Aigner fences are a must this time as I said I would get them for my Z700 and never did. If I don’t get hem now I never will. Why I think they are a must I don’t know as they really are not but I really want them.

But now I think I have good use for the aigner back fence and centrex or whatever gadget it is that puts pressure back against the outboard fence.

Love these threads.

[James Biddle]

Hi Joe,
I'd like to buy that Aigner Pressure Jaw setup.

The Aigner part number for the Pressure Jaws appears to be 214 448 000 193 (my old 2014 catalog calls it 214 572 000 192).

That looks like it attaches to a pressure module that is used for all of the roller setups, right? We have one of those (214 526 000 192), will it work?

That in turn looks like it mounts to a Supporting Rail, part number 213 505 000 193, that attaches to the fences.

Is that all the parts required?

Keeping the fence close is good for dust collection, that’s the advantage fo the Aigner Pressure jaws. Early on I used the Weaver setup for outboard where you remove the fence to place spring hold downs for pressure. That setup was not good for dust collection.

Here are pictures of using the Aigner outboard setup on the T23. These are 4” thick window frame parts being machined in one pass. One picture shows the pressure jaws removed. If you have a heat gun these plexiglass Springs can be shop made easily.

29259B1D-846A-4B4D-AE18-706CA7A2A5A3.jpg
AE852AA0-79FD-4E79-B1B5-172E4E85C298.jpg

[Jeff Duncan]

Lots of good info here already, but the one thing I do when I run into a situation like this is start basic. Turn off the machine, raise the feeder, then slide the workpiece in until you get to the exact spot where the problem happens. Just doing that will let you see where everything is at that point and usually yield the "aha" moment, and get you back on track. Trying to do it without is far more difficult.

Sounds like you've identified your problem already and luckily the solution is an easy one.

good luck,
JeffD

[brent stanley]

Lots of good info here already, but the one thing I do when I run into a situation like this is start basic. Turn off the machine, raise the feeder, then slide the workpiece in until you get to the exact spot where the problem happens. Just doing that will let you see where everything is at that point and usually yield the "aha" moment, and get you back on track. Trying to do it without is far more difficult.

Sounds like you've identified your problem already and luckily the solution is an easy one.

good luck,
JeffD

Exactly, good advice.

[Joe Calhoon]

Hi Joe,
I'd like to buy that Aigner Pressure Jaw setup.

The Aigner part number for the Pressure Jaws appears to be 214 448 000 193 (my old 2014 catalog calls it 214 572 000 192).

That looks like it attaches to a pressure module that is used for all of the roller setups, right? We have one of those (214 526 000 192), will it work?

That in turn looks like it mounts to a Supporting Rail, part number 213 505 000 193, that attaches to the fences.

Is that all the parts required?

Jim,
that is correct, 3 components to attach to the Aigner fences. Your Aigner fence will have hex screws to secure the vertical posts. I would suggest removing them as they are not needed for this operation and a pain to adjust. You do need them if ever pressing down from the posts.
i will PM you the latest price list with both current Martin and Aigner part numbers.

For attaching the Thickness stop to the shaper I would suggest the long Aigner bar attached to the pull out support. The pictures of my T26 show a long bar attached to the machine and a shorter bar attached to the pullout. I would just put the long bar on the pullout.
Aigner also sells a adapter and long bar that attaches to the pullout. It’s spendy and not possible to open the door with a that attached.

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