Straight Edge recommendations

[Gustav Gabor]

Wow.... 1/32" out is really bad! That's as bad as a regular (cheap) carpenters square.....
Are you sure there wasn't some crap in the slot ,or somewhere, that could be throwing things off?

If memory serves me, the bad ones I checked out back in the day were only out of square approximately .002" - .003" over 12", but that was unacceptable as far as I was concerned.

I have a 12” sterrett combo square I received as a gift at least five years ago. Brand new out of the box it was out like at least a 32nd..

Wish I had done something about it as it’s relegated to stuff that’s not important.

[Greg Funk]

I have a 12” sterrett combo square I received as a gift at least five years ago. Brand new out of the box it was out like at least a 32nd..

Wish I had done something about it as it’s relegated to stuff that’s not important.

They’re easy to adjust with a fine file.

[Joe Calhoon]

After having a marginal 30” straight edge for years I bought a 4’ SPI brand straight edge. I think it is middle of the road as far as machinist tools but seems plenty good enough for what I do. I use it with a feeler gauge to check sliding tables for coplaner, shaper and profiler fences and many more tasks.
Interesting to learn about machinist levels here.
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[peter gagliardi]

Brian, what size was the straightedge you ordered? I have gotten all of mine thru either MSC or McMaster Carr.
I have a couple 18", a 36" and a 72". The 18's I believe came in a padded box, the longer 2 were packed with a wood frame, and probably cardboard or heavy paper- don't remember, but I know it was plenty sturdy.

[Brian Holcombe]

Peter, this was a 6’ straight edge. The packaging was fine, and undamaged. I think I will go to a cast iron straight edge, I have a camelback 24” now and steel 12”, for longer I think that a cast iron with parallel sides would be good.

[Patrick Walsh]

You know I have been wanting/needing a good edge for a long time. I have had myself convinced ever since buying my “you know who” combo machine that I needed a edge the full length of the machine.

Honestly and regardless of the various approaches to setting up a jointer a long straight edge is the way I feel comfortable doing the work. But you know that combo is working fine now so I really no longer need that Uber long edge. My Martin jointer I don’t suspect to ever fall out.

Regardless I do have the slider to finish setting up and I do have new “to me” shaper probably on the way in the next few weeks. The. I have a new job with the expectation I maintain the machinery.

Anyway seeing Joe using the SPI made me consider that if it’s good enough for Joe it’s probably good enough for me. When not using a tool like this to do the initial setup of a machine I use a edge much as joe mostly on the shaper and and jointer to set fences and knives. A 72-96 edge seems great for say setting up the jointer and or the initial setup of my slider but beyond that just handling the thing is asking to take it out of tolerance.

Anyway I’m thinking starting with a SPI or Sub tool edge vrs a Starrett seems to make good sense and maybe 48-60” vrs 72-96. If I find it not accurate enough and or to small long term I can always count on the edge for the general machine setup I currently use a cheap empire aluminum edge for that has worked just fine. For me it’s mostly setting up the shaper.

I always like to buy the best. This may be a case where that approach is or is not well served seeing Brian’s experience above. I’m finding the $$$ drain of this whole thing to be a bit never ending and exhausting at this point. Maybe I can cut back in wee areas like this.

Peter, this was a 6’ straight edge. The packaging was fine, and undamaged. I think I will go to a cast iron straight edge, I have a camelback 24” now and steel 12”, for longer I think that a cast iron with parallel sides would be good.

[peter gagliardi]

In my experience, SPI does make excellent quality tools. And usually at a good price point.

Brian, I have wanted a 6' camelback straightedge for years.
2 problems-
1. They are big, and they look HEAVY. Might need a couple guys, or a lift to place the tool.
2. They are, generally expensive. For a very limited use item, I can find other ways to skin the cat, and invest that money in something that provides more return on the investment.
I have only once seen one for sale used, even then, $$$

[Brian Holcombe]

I missed a great camelback at a bargain last year, bought the 24” from the same person.

Ceramic is a nice choice, light and can be made super accurate but they’re painfully expensive. I would need a bit of temporary insanity to buy one.

[Brian Holcombe]

Camelbacks of that size (6’) need an overhead lift. This stuff creates a spiraling effect. Before you know it, you’re a metrology shop

[Darcy Warner]

Camelbacks of that size (6’) need an overhead lift. This stuff creates a spiraling effect. Before you know it, you’re a metrology shop

I owned a 6 footer, not practical. 4 foot is more than enough for anyone who is not running a grinding shop.

[Doug Dawson]

Right from Starrett, the shipper wasn’t the issue IMO.

If the edge had been traceable they would have caught that. It's disturbing that this got by QC. I would have tried again, but I can understand the desire not to.

[Brian Holcombe]

A friend of mine sent me a link this morning, The fellow who scraped my angle plates and camelback put up a 2.5” square x 41” master box parallel. I decided to take him up on it, fellows name is Daryl Smith, this is Daryl’s shop;

[Brian Holcombe]

If the edge had been traceable they would have caught that. It's disturbing that this got by QC. I would have tried again, but I can understand the desire not to.

Starrett has been really perfect about it, their customer service is top notch. The experience gave me a chance to rethink my needs.

[Mel Fulks]

I don't really need a straight edge much. About 30 years ago I made 3 foot, 5 foot, and 7'10" ( needed to keep it hanging
in room with 8' ceiling. Used tempered Masonite with white Formica glued on both sides with PRG. Really only needed the 7'10 but I
made the other two part of the accuracy process. Final accuracy checks were done edge to edge with pieces of narrow
news print between finished edges ,etc. I let the rough pieces hanging for weeks before starting any real work.

[Jacob Reverb]

I have a 12” sterrett combo square I received as a gift at least five years ago. Brand new out of the box it was out like at least a 32nd..

Wish I had done something about it as it’s relegated to stuff that’s not important.

Wow, I'd send that puppy back up to Athol. I suspect they'd send you a new one and pick up shipping both ways to make that right (and to remove something so screwed up with their name on it from being out in the wild).

I bought a 12" blade for a Starrett combo square from Amazon that was all scarred up when I got it. They sent me a new one and told me to keep the defective one, but it made me wonder whether Amazon was selling counterfeits (as they reportedly do with other products, Birkenstocks for one)...