Finish Problems (And I don't mean problems from Finland.)

[Jason Christenson]

After countless mistakes and difficulties turning Christmas presents this year, I am finally somewhat confident in my ability to turn small useless objects (pens, darts, etc). I'm still not happy with my finishes at all though. I've been using John's CA method and everything looks really nice and shiny until about the time I complete assembly. I'm willing to spend the time it takes to get a quality finish but evidently don't know how! Any advice or alternate finishes/techniques would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

[Ron Ainge]

I don't know the process you are using with the CA glue but if you are having white spots appear after you apply the glue and finish the item you may have moisture showing up in the finish. If I use green wood on small project I always turn them real thin and let them dry a few days before I finish them. If you are having problems with the finish not appearing the way you want it to you may want to try to buff them after you get the finish dry. If you are having any other type of problem send me a message and I will try to give you an answer.

[John Hart]

I'd have to echo what Ron says. Sounds like green wood. If you are using Green wood, the moisture will break down the CA (It's water soluable). To expedite the drying process, you can soak your blank in Denatured Alcohol. That should draw out the water fairly quick. There's also the microwave method that might get you there quicker.

[Mike Glaze]

I'd have to echo what Ron says. Sounds like green wood. If you are using Green wood, the moisture will break down the CA (It's water soluable). To expedite the drying process, you can soak your blank in Denatured Alcohol. That should draw out the water fairly quick. There's also the microwave method that might get you there quicker.

Jason, I have twenty years of finishing experience which is mostly on electric guitars. This is always dealing with well seasoned wood, so moisture is never a problem regardless of what finishing material I choose.

My dad does chainsaw bear carvings and he basically cuts up logs that have a very high moisture content. The high moisture content of the wood has caused him problems with the finish he uses. However it also depends on the type of wood he is using, not all woods with high moisture content have had finishing problems. He also has problems with certain types of wood cracking on him and pine is the worst. His favorite wood is siberian elm which does not crack once he puts a finish on it. He is still trying to refine his process of getting the wood not to crack and retain a nice finish years later. Maybe someone knows a good process for this? He does not try to season his huge logs, but I suggested he start trying to build up a stockpile of logs and let them sit around with the ends of the logs coated with Anchorseal. The main problem is it takes about a year to season/air dry wood that is one inch thick, so a 20" log is just impractical to wait to season and use. The other excellent solution is cutting up large dead trees that have been sitting for years.

I'm going to agree with Ron and John. Your finishing problem is the high moisture content of the wood.

Mike

[Jason Christenson]

The problem I'm having is with the sheen. It is very nice and shiny for a short period of time, but it never lasts very long. In the end it looks like there is very little finish left intact even though I have been using four coats of CA using BLO to accelerate it.

Maybe I'm rushing the whole thing, how long should I let it set before I take it off the mandrel and assemble. I have been doing it pretty much as soon as it is dry to the touch plus whatever time it takes to vacuum up around the lathe.

Jason

[John Hart]

Jason...What kind of wood are we talking about?

Just as a wild guess, it still sounds like the CA is breaking down and migrating into the wood. Perhaps dousing it with BLO...let sit for 15 minutes...then friction cure it...then start your CA/BLO Coats. Hard to guess though. Perhaps CA is the wrong stuff for the wood you're using.

You could try the new improved Secret Finish! It looks pretty nice, easy application and all that.

[Dennis Peacock]

Try lacquer or a nice shellac based friction finish. Always worked for me.

[Jason Christenson]

Jason...What kind of wood are we talking about?

Type of wood doesn't seem to make a difference. The last pen I tried was Bethlehem Olive. Before that it was a pepper mill made of Orange Osage and Zebra wood. I'll give your BLO suggestion a try when I finish the jump drives that I have waiting to be turned.

Um....what's the secret finish???


Thanks,
Jason

[Jason Christenson]

Try lacquer

I'm more than willing to try lacquer, Dennis. If your willing to take the time, fill me in on the steps you use for a lacquer finish.

Thanks,
Jason

[John Hart]

Type of wood doesn't seem to make a difference. The last pen I tried was Bethlehem Olive. Before that it was a pepper mill made of Orange Osage and Zebra wood. I'll give your BLO suggestion a try when I finish the jump drives that I have waiting to be turned.

Um....what's the secret finish???


Thanks,
Jason

Here's the thread for the Secret finish http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=27757

My Brother in law has a lot of trouble with finish on the Olive. I just used the secret finish on Osage and it is very nice. I did an Olive pen last weekend and the secret finish also performed nicely.

You do Jump Drives? Woo Hoo!! Didn't know there was a kit for that!!! You must tell me your sources...I will be forever grateful kind sir.

[Jason Christenson]

You do Jump Drives? Woo Hoo!! Didn't know there was a kit for that!!! You must tell me your sources...I will be forever grateful kind sir.

I don't know if it's fair to say that I DO jump drives, especially considering that I have never ACTUALLY TURNED one yet. However I do have two blanks drilled out with the brass tubes glued in waiting for the holidays to get over.

When I turn them I will try the secret finish on one (I found the thread right after I asked you about it ) and CA on the other. I'll let you know how they come out.

Here is where I get them, John: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/pkfc128.html

Jason

[Earl Eyre]

The secret finish (above) should work great. You might also try the ol' 1/3 BLO, Alcohol and Shellac. Use it as a friction polish. Should work fine on small items. A little dampness shouldn't affect it. Even if it dulls as the wood dries a little paste wax should bring it right back. The shellac should keep it from soaking all the way into the wood the way the CA seems to be doing. You may have trouble with pure laquer...it tends to cloud up with moisture in the wood.